Why You Shouldn’t Overlook the American South

Posted: 2/18/2019 | February 18th, 2019

I love the South. Over the years, it has become one of my favorite parts of the United States. Before I went traveling, I always had this perception that the southern states were backward. They were filled with racists, yokels, and obese, gun-loving, Jesus freaks. It was a perception born out of a quarter-century of living in New England and consuming mass media and stereotypes about a people and place I really didn’t know anything about.

Then, at the start of my grand trip in 2006, I drove across the United States. As I made my way through the South, I fell in love with the region. I loved the food, the people, the scenery, the architecture. My perception of the South was wrong.

Yes, it has a lingering history of racism, poverty, and is more conservative than I personally am, but no place is perfect — and no place is like the stereotypes you see. Driving through the South was the first instance in which I really confronted the stereotypes about people and places I grew up with.

I repeated the road trip in 2015 and fell deeper in love with the region. And I oddly found Mississippi to be a complete hidden gem. As a Northerner, I did not expect that.

I realized that the Southern states — which encompass a massive section of the country — are not as culturally and politically monolithic as they once were. Every state is different, each offering the attentive traveler an eclectic mix of incredible food, foot-stomping music, and heart-warming hospitality.

Today, I want to introduce you to Caroline Eubanks. She’s a friend and fellow travel writer whose work primarily focuses on the American South. Caroline has called the South home for her entire life, and in her new guidebook, This Is My South, she shatters all the stereotypes about the Southern United States while sharing her expert tips and suggestions to help you make the most of your next visit.

In this interview, we discuss all things Southern, why this book needed to be written, and why you shouldn’t overlook this region of the country!

Nomadic Matt: Tell everyone a bit about yourself! How did you get into what it is you do?
Caroline Eubanks: I’m Caroline Eubanks, a native of Atlanta, Georgia. I went to college in Charleston, South Carolina and it was there I really fell in love with the American South, especially driving back and forth from my hometown past small towns on country roads. I started working for a newspaper when I lived there and started reading travel blogs (including Matt’s!) so I was inspired to create my own. I leveraged guest posts into paid work and one job led to another. I’ve since been published by BBC Travel, Lonely Planet, Thrillist, Roads & Kingdoms, and Fodor’s. I also started my own blog, Caroline in the City, in 2009, and later This Is My South in 2012. This is basically the only job I’ve ever had and the only one I wanted!

How did you start writing about the Southern USA?
I grew up taking road trips around the region with my family, whether that was to the Outer Banks or the Panhandle of Florida. After graduating from college, I went on a working holiday in Australia where I worked with a lot of people from all over the world. I would try to explain to them where I came from but most of the time they were only familiar with places like Miami and New York. And most travelers went to a few well-known destinations but nothing in between. So I started my website, This Is My South, to tell people about the lesser-known destinations that I love from my corner of the world. I also started focusing on the region in my freelance writing since the market wasn’t quite so saturated.

Why do you think the south gets such a bad wrap?
A lot of it comes from the news. Of course, bad things happen here, but it’s a large region so that’s bound to happen. It becomes polarizing with elections but there are lots of different opinions, not just the ones that are the loudest.

I also think people assume that the movies and television shows about it are accurate. Gone with the Wind and Deliverance are not accurate representations at all. These remain what people most associate the region with, but there are large cities like Atlanta, Charlotte, and Nashville as well as the small towns. You wouldn’t assume every Australian is like Crocodile Dundee or that every person from New Jersey was Tony Soprano, right?

What about the stereotypes about the South?
When I lived in Australia, I went to an expat July 4 party and I was talking to a guy from Ohio. When I said I was from Georgia, he joked that he was surprised to see I had all my teeth. When my parents were traveling in New York, someone asked about their crops. I realized how little people know about this part of the world. I started thinking about these perceptions of the South from both Americans and the world as a whole.

I wouldn’t say that some of the stereotypes aren’t true. There are obviously political divides, but I think there’s a lot more to the South than what you read in the news. The people are overall welcoming and friendly. The region is home to some of the nation’s top universities like Duke and Emory. There are young people creating murals in their small towns (like Kristin!) to drive tourism as well as immigrants from everywhere to Korea to India to Syria bringing their cuisines to meld with traditional regional dishes. And I think there’s something just about everyone can come together on, especially in the South, like food.

What are some of your favorite things about the south?
I always say the food, which is certainly one element. You’ll find both comfort food like fried chicken and collard greens and “healthy” food as well as the cuisines of dozens of cultures. For example, there’s a large Korean community near where I live in Atlanta so I can have authentic Korean barbecue before relaxing at a Korean spa. I love how food is a way that people show their affection.

I also love the general attitude and friendliness. People tend to know their neighbors and offer help when needed. And the music is unmatched by anywhere else in the country. Every genre can be found here. You don’t have to go to a stadium to see impressive artists since there’s usually someone playing at the local dive bar or coffee shop.

Why did you write this book?
I wanted to show people the South that I know and love. I had thought about the idea of writing a guidebook but it actually came to life when I was contacted by a publisher after six years of running my website. They saw my work and wanted to create a guidebook in a similar format. Ever since I started writing, I’ve wanted to write a guidebook, so it was definitely a dream come true.

It was important to me that I have the flexibility to include the places I had fallen in love with in my travels, not just the popular ones. I have a section on the must-eat dishes from every state, quirky roadside attractions, unique accommodations like historic hotels and treehouses, and tours. I tried to emphasize responsible travel and small businesses, so you won’t find those double decker bus tours or your big chain hotels.

I also wanted to include elements that I find lacking in other books, namely the history and odd pieces of trivia. For example, I have sections on the title of “Kentucky Colonel” and the legal loopholes that allow for casinos on and near the Mississippi River.

What do you hope travelers will walk away knowing from your book?
That it’s more than one story. I hope that travelers will be inspired to visit some of the places they’ve heard about as well as ones not previously on their radar. I hope they’ll challenge some of their preconceived notions about the region and give it a chance. I hope they’ll come back for more since there’s no way to see it all at once. And, of course, I hope that travelers will visit the places I write about and tell others about them!

What makes the south special?
So many things. There is unmatched biodiversity including the barrier islands on the North Carolina coast to the swamps of Louisiana to the Great Smoky Mountains of Tennessee. The Appalachian Trail runs through much of the region, starting in Georgia at Springer Mountain. It’s a region where connecting with nature is a part of everyday life.

Food is also affordable and you can find it in unique places. Similar to the bodega eats in New York, the South sells surprisingly good food at gas stations, including fried chicken, Cajun meats, and Delta hot tamales. Dining is a major part of visiting the region as it’s home to many different styles of cuisine that have influenced American food. You can find “Southern food” in both award-winning restaurants and mom-and-pop casual spots, so there’s something for everyone.

The region is also important when it comes to history. It’s where European travelers first arrived in America, specifically South Carolina and Virginia, and where they were met with Native American tribes. Much of the Civil Rights Movement took place here like the 16th Street Baptist Church in Birmingham, the Lorraine Motel in Memphis, and the Woolworth’s counter in Greensboro. A number of notable politicians, including presidents Jimmy Carter and Woodrow Wilson, hailed from these states.

There’s also a lot to offer music lovers since nearly every type of American music has roots in the blues of Mississippi. Icons like Elvis Presley and Johnny Cash were influenced by these musicians and infused their styles into their own music. In addition to rock and blues, the mountains of the South were where bluegrass and “old time” music started, eventually becoming modern country music. And, of course, Atlanta is known for its music industry, especially when it comes to hip hop and R&B. Artists like TLC, Usher, Goodie Mob, and Outkast rose to fame there.

What are some budget travel tips for the area?
The South is generally a fairly cheap place to travel. The main expenditures are transportation and accommodation. Flights into major airports like Atlanta, Charlotte, Orlando, and New Orleans will be cheaper than smaller ones. The same goes for car rentals. Once in the South, it is possible to get around without a car by taking Amtrak and Megabus, but by car is certainly the preferred method of travel.

Certain cities will be more expensive for accommodations, especially Charleston. But you can look for alternative options like small bed and breakfasts, campgrounds with cabins, hostels, and Airbnb rentals. Keep in mind that rentals are limited in cities like New Orleans because of how it affects the local housing market. New Orleans is also great because you can stay at a trendy boutique hotel for under $100 per night.

Meals are cheap at most places unless you’re visiting a fine dining restaurant. If you’re looking for a meal on the go, visit a grocery store to save money. Most have deli counters and prepared foods. Lunch is a good time of day to try the more expensive restaurants, especially those award-winners that can be tough to get a reservation at.

What are some of your favorite off the beaten path destinations?
You don’t have to go far from the well-known destinations like Charleston, New Orleans, and Nashville to see places not in most of the guidebooks. One of the places I always say is a favorite of mine is the Mississippi Delta, which is a number of towns that follow the river south of Memphis. This part of the country is highly important when it comes to music. It was here that artists like BB King and Robert Johnson found their sound and where the blues was developed. There are some funky accommodations like the Shack Up Inn, a collection of sharecropper cabins transformed into guest suites.

I was also surprised by Northwest Arkansas. This region is known for mountain biking, with trails connecting the towns, but also has an incredible craft brewery scene. Crystal Bridges Museum of Art has one of the best collections in the nation, if not the world, focusing on American works like those by Andy Warhol and Frank Lloyd Wright. Eureka Springs is a funky mountain town that looks straight out of a postcard from the 1800s.

I’ve also found some off-the-beaten-path areas within well-known destinations. In my hometown of Atlanta, I always recommend that visitors check out Buford Highway, the city’s international dining corridor. When I lived in Charleston, I spent most of my time downtown, but on subsequent visits, I end up in the Park Circle area of North Charleston, an underrated part of the city. Just outside of Nashville is Franklin, a town with deep ties to the Civil War. It’s just off the Natchez Trace Parkway and hosts musicians nearly every night of the week at Puckett’s Grocery. They also host Pilgrimage, an annual music festival that has hosted the likes of Justin Timberlake and Jack White.

In every small town in between, there are quirky museums and landmarks you might miss if you limit your trip to the “big” destinations, like a museum devoted to ventriloquism in Kentucky and a memorial to the victims of the Trail of Tears in Alabama. You never know what you might find!

***

Caroline Eubanks is a travel writer and the author of This Is My South: The Essential Travel Guide to the Southern States. She writes about all things Southern at ThisisMySouth.com. You can also find her on Facebook, Twitter, and Instagram.

Book Your Trip: Logistical Tips and Tricks

Book Your Flight
Find a cheap flight by using Skyscanner or Momondo. They are my two favorite search engines because they search websites and airlines around the globe so you always know no stone is left unturned.

Book Your Accommodation
You can book your hostel with Hostelworld as they have the largest inventory. If you want to stay somewhere other than a hotel, use Booking.com as they consistently return the cheapest rates for guesthouses and cheap hotels. I use them all the time.

Don’t Forget Travel Insurance
Travel insurance will protect you against illness, injury, theft, and cancellations. It’s comprehensive protection in case anything goes wrong. I never go on a trip without it as I’ve had to use it many times in the past. I’ve been using World Nomads for ten years. My favorite companies that offer the best service and value are:

• World Nomads (for everyone below 70)
• Insure My Trip (for those over 70)

Looking for the best companies to save money with?
Check out my resource page for the best companies to use when you travel! I list all the ones I use to save money when I travel – and I think will help you too!

The State Department Issued a New Travel Advisory for Peru — Here's What You Need to Know (Video)

The U.S. State Department is once again warning Americans about traveling to certain parts of Peru.

According to TravelPulse, the department re-issued its warning ahead of two major sporting events involving American athletes — the Pan American Games taking place fom July 26 to Aug. 11, as well as the Parapan American Games from Aug. 23 to Sept. 1.

In the level two warning the State Department said in part, “Crime, including petty theft, carjackings, muggings, assaults, and violent crime, is a concern in Peru, and can occur during daylight hours, despite the presence of many witnesses. The risk of crime increases after hours and outside the capital city of Lima where more organized criminal groups have been known to use roadblocks to rob victims.”

While the country itself comes with the level two warning some regions come with a level four alert, meaning travel is outright banned for official American personnel.

Along the Colombian and Peruvian border in the Loreto Region the State Department said, “Drug trafficking and other criminal activity, combined with poor infrastructure, limits the capability and effectiveness of Peruvian law enforcement in this area.” It added, “The U.S. government has limited ability to provide emergency services to U.S. citizens as U.S. government personnel are restricted from traveling within 20 kilometers of the border with Colombia in the Loreto region, except on the Amazon River itself, without permission. This includes travel on the Putumayo River, which forms most of the Peru-Colombia border.”

The other region that is now off-limits to official American representatives is the Valley of the Apurímac, Ene, and Mantaro Rivers, or VRAEM.

“Remnants of the Shining Path terrorist group are active in the VRAEM,” the State Department said. “The group may attack with little or no warning, targeting Peruvian government installations and personnel. Drug trafficking and other criminal activity, combined with poor infrastructure, limit the capability and effectiveness of Peruvian law enforcement in this area.”

While the warning certainly sounds dire it does not include popular tourist destinations in Peru including Machu Picchu and the Sacred Valley.

In those regions — and really any tourist destination — the State Department encourages travelers to exercise normal precautions. That includes staying alert, not carrying large amounts of cash, securing personal items like purses and backpacks, and only using app-based taxi services or ordering a taxi by phone. So, don’t put off your dream trip to Machu Picchu, just make sure to stay aware of your surroundings when you go.

The Saturday City: Girona

I had the pleasure of visiting Girona, located in the Costa Brava region of Spain just north of Barcelona, when it acted as host city for this year’s European travel blogger conference.

This region of Spain is not as popular as Costa del Sol or islands like Ibiza, which is good and bad. Good because there aren’t that many tourists here and it’s relatively quiet. Bad because this region is beautiful, picturesque, and filled with gorgeous coastlines that I wish they did advertise more so I would have visited sooner. I can’t believe I’ve been coming to Spain for six years and never made it here! Costa Brava has become one of my favorite spots in Spain and Girona one of my favorite cities.

The city of Girona has been inhabited since before the Romans. After the Roman Empire collapsed, the city was ruled by an endless stream of kings and princes over the centuries. Girona has undergone 25 sieges and been captured seven times in its history.

One of the most famous of these sieges began in May 1809 when the city was besieged by 35,000 French Napoleonic troops until disease and famine compelled it to surrender that December. I actually got to see a reenactment of one of the battles from this siege while I was there. It was a quite a spectacle seeing everyone dressed up, and unlike reenactments in the United States, you got “on the battlefield” with everyone else. Tons of people intermingled with the reenactors and took photos on the field. It also meant that the cannons and guns got scarily close to me.

Modern-day Girona is filled with abundant food, cheap bars, and winding cobblestone streets that I could spend hours getting lost in. During my amazing stay here, I found a number of activities to enjoy:

Ice cream at Rocambolesc — The three Roca brothers are considered some of the top chefs in the world and run the second-best restaurant in the world (see further down this list). In Girona, Jordi Roca, the youngest brother, runs this ice cream shop with a sort of Willy Wonka decor. You can enjoy interesting flavors, various sherbets that can be topped with berries, cotton candy, popping candy, fruits, whipped cream, chocolate sauce, fudge, and so much more. I went there two days in a row, and I regret not going more.

Monastery Sant Pere de Rodes — One of the oldest in Europe, this grand monastery is outside the city but easy to get to by bus or car. The church is a great example of Romanesque architecture.

The Girona Cathedral — A spectacular cathedral, the interior includes the widest Gothic nave in the world and the second widest overall after St. Peter’s Basilica in the Vatican. Construction was first started in the 11th century and wasn’t completed until the 18th century. It’s right in the center of town. While it’s not as amazing as the Sant Pere, if you can’t make it there, visit this cathedral.

Walk the wall — Girona used to be surrounded by a vast medieval wall meant to keep out unfriendly armies. That wall was destroyed centuries ago, but you can walk around a reconstructed version that surrounds the historic center of the city and see all the main points of interest.

The City History Museum — Are you a history buff? Good, me too! I try to visit every history museum I come across. After all, you can’t know where people are if you don’t know where they have been. Girona’s history museum does a good job of explaining the city’s complex and often turbulent history.

Day trip to Figueres to see Dalí — A short trip from Girona (around an hour by train) is the Dalí museum in Figueres. Dalí is an important figure in this region, having been born in Figueres, though he lived in the coastal town of Cadaques most of his life (you can visit that house too). Some of Dalí’s most famous surrealist art and statues can be found in the Figueres museum. Be prepared for the crowds; at times, you are moving at a snail’s pace to see some of the more famous works — it’s always rush hour here.

The Jewish Quarter — The 12th century saw the birth of a flourishing Jewish community that was ended in 1492 when the Jews were expelled from Spain. Today, the Jewish Quarter is one of the best preserved historic sites in Europe, with centuries-old houses and façades still in wonderful condition. There is also a museum to visit, though I didn’t make it there. However, this writer did and had some interesting comments.

El Celler de Can Roca — Owned by the famous Roca brothers and considered the second best in the world, a meal here will cost mucho dinero (a lot of money), but if you have the money to spend, why not eat at one of the top restaurants in the world? The brothers catered our blogger conference (crazy, huh?) and the food was heavenly. I am sure the restaurant is just as mouth watering.

Gorge on the food — OK, this activity isn’t limited to this city. Eating is one of the greatest activities in all of Spain, but in Girona, eating is truly an art form. I went overboard on the tapas, cured ham, and ice cream. For tapas, check out Txalaka.

Girona offers a place to experience the Catalonian region without the hordes in nearby Barcelona. It also makes for a good gateway city into the regions of Costa Brava, with its villages, famous coastline, and access to the Pyrenees.

Photo credits: 1

The Saturday City: Kampot

When I first came to Cambodia in February 2007, I sped through it like The Flash because I had to reach Bangkok by March 1 to start my Thai classes. I missed a number of places, including Kampot, a tiny quiet town on the coast, south of Sihanoukville. I vowed to make it there on this trip.

Kampot is a small riverside town that is mostly in bed by 11pm. It’s in stark contrast to the loud and late-night party destination that its neighbor Sihanoukville is. Before the Khmer Rouge, this region of Cambodia used to be the getaway area for the French, and you still find decaying French villas throughout this region. On Kampot’s river promenade, you’ll see the heavy French influence of wide boulevards, trees, and (decaying) French architecture.

Modern Kampot might not be the happening destination it once was (it’s small, quiet, and run down), but it attracts a lot of people because of the surrounding Bokor Mountains and relaxing atmosphere.

Kampot is a black hole — life moves so slowly here that you get caught in its gravitational pull and find that your two-day trip has suddenly turned into six. It’s hard to leave.

Luckily, there are a few activities here to keep you entertained during your visit:

Bokor Hill Station – Most people come to Kampot to visit Bokor, the old French hillside villa, palace, and casino. I missed it in 2007 and I am very sad I did. What was once beautiful ruins only accessible by a dirt road is now a construction site for casinos and luxury villas easily visited by a paved road. This place has become Disneyland, its former historic value ruined. I list it here only so I can tell you to skip it. It’s no longer the place it once was.

Pepper farms – Kampot pepper is considered some of the best in the world because of its strong taste. Kampot was once one of the biggest pepper-growing regions in the world (the area is slowly rebuilding from time of the Khmer Rouge), and a day trip to a farm is a common activity. It was my most interesting trip, because before my visit I knew nothing of pepper except that it improved the taste of my food. But after standing beside the tall vines, learning about how different types of pepper are made (pepper is picked at different levels of ripeness to obtain different colors), I have a new appreciation for the spice.

Day trip to Kep – The next big city in the region, Kep is a small fishing village with a very nice beach. There’s really nothing to do in this tiny town besides eat. Kep is famous for its seafood, and the cracked pepper crab is the local dish of choice. It makes for a good day trip: walk the markets, eat some food, chill on the beach. But if the “hustle and bustle” of Kampot is too much for you, come stay in quieter Kep.

Cave trip – There are a number of caves in the region, including one with a religious shrine. You can hire a tuk-tuk from Kampot and explore them for the day.

River cruise – With a river flowing through the city, it’s not hard to imagine this being on the list. If you take the Bokor trip, a sunset river cruise is included. If you don’t take the trip, you can still find a river cruise or rent a boat on your own from either one of the tourist offices or fisherman on the river.

Eat some BBQ ribs – I would never have expected to find some of the best BBQ ribs in Cambodia, but I did. Spend one dinner at The Rusty Keyhole eating a rack or half rack of BBQ pork ribs. You’ll be able to enjoy a healthy side of mashed potatoes and coleslaw too.

Eat durian – Kampot is the durian capital of Cambodia. Durian is a fruit with a very pungent smell found throughout Southeast Asia. Its smell is so strong that it is often banned from hotels. Many of the pepper farms also grow durian, and there’s a big monument to the stinky fruit in the center of Kampot. Personally, I don’t mind the fruit. The smell doesn’t bother me too much, and while it’s not the best tasting fruit in the world, it’s completely edible.

See salt areas – On the road to Kep, you’ll find numerous old rice paddies that have been converted into salt fields. Workers bring in sea water from the coast (by hand) and dry it in the fields to create sea salt. After the water is gone, the salt is packed down, scooped up, and sold off.

Drink a fruit shake – At night, the street near the old bridge becomes lined with fruit shake vendors. You can move from vendor to vendor, trying different fruit shake concoctions, sit down at the stalls, and people-watch.

I really loved Kampot and its atmosphere. It was a complete 180 from busy Sihanoukville. I was surprised to find that even with so few places to stay (personal favorite: The Magic Sponge), there were still plenty of rooms available. Even though a lot of people get stuck here, not a lot of people bother to venture here in the first place.

Which, while a shame — because they miss out on such a great place — is fine by me. It keeps Kampot quiet and wonderful.

Photo credit: 1