A Complete Visitor's Guide to the Waitomo's Glowworm Caves

Updated: 9/1/2018 | September 1st, 2018

Waitomo is famous for one thing: worms. And not just any ol’ worms but glow worms! Every year thousands of travelers come here to see the famous glow worms that line the ceilings of the nearby caves.

The interesting thing about the glow worms is that they aren’t really worms at all. They’re actually fly larvae that emit a phosphorescent glow that shines from the inside of the caves like a starry night, lighting up the ceiling. So, why do they glow if they’re not glow worms? Well, it’s actually their waste and snot that glows. The larvae developed this glow to attract prey into their sticky threads by making the prey believe they’re outdoors. Since the cave ceiling looks like a starry night, the prey will try to fly upwards and end up stuck in the larvae strands. The hungry larvae will then devour their prey.

While glowing fly larvae may not sound like an amazing activity, as you can see from the photos it’s still incredibly captivating and beautiful.

The caves were discovered in the late 19th century by a local Maori chief. They were opened to the public shortly thereafter, with local Maori acting as guides. While the caves were taken over by the government for many years, they were eventually returned to the Maori. In fact, many of the present-day workers are descendants of the original founders of the caves. The Ruakuri cave, in particular, has significant links to the spiritual traditions of the Maori.

These days, over half a million people visit the caves every year. A huge industry has built up to help people visit the Waitomo glow worm caves, with plenty of options available depending on what you’re looking to do. There’s the three-hour black-water tubing trip, the five-hour trip that includes abseiling and climbing, or if you like it easy, a boat through a bigger cave.

My Glow Worm Experience at Waitomo Caves

Waking up early in the morning, my group headed out to the cold waters of Ruakuri cave. We wetsuited up and practiced jumping into the inner tubes we would ride through the caves. I wasn’t happy that I had to jump off not one, but two small waterfalls. Worse yet, this had to be done backward so I could land in my tube. The waterfalls are only a meter or two high, but I really hate heights. Yet at that moment, realizing a wetsuit doesn’t keep you dry but simply wet, I found something I hated even more.

After our practice jump, we, a crowd of 12 wet-suit-wearing, boot-wearing, helmet-wearing backpackers, marched gingerly towards our destination. After a short walk in the woods, we entered the glow worms’ dominion and were given a quick tutorial about how the next few hours would go. Sadly, it felt like the tutorial lasted longer than the trip—away from the light, surrounded by darkness and the rushing chill of the water, the hours seemed to pass by in minutes. Just as I was adjusting to the experience, the end of the tunnel came and we were topside again.

But the experience in between was amazing. After our instructions, we began to descend into the cave. We walked through tight openings and tunnels and waded through quick-moving and very cold water. Sometimes the water was ankle deep, other times chest height. Eventually, we came to the first milestone: waterfall #1. I met the waterfall with trepidation. My group, knowing my fear, encouraged me to go first, but that wasn’t going to happen. I went third. My fear was that I’d never jump far enough to clear the rocks. I didn’t jump far enough. As my tube landed in the water, my foot lightly touched the bottom rock.

From there, it’s an easy cruise through the cave, where above you, you begin to see glow worms like stars in the sky. They seemed limitless in number. It reminded me of my childhood when I used to put those glow-in-the-dark cosmos stickers on my ceiling and stare at them as they lit up my room.

But the day’s biggest challenge lay ahead: waterfall #2. This waterfall was much higher than the first, and to me, it might as well have been Niagara Falls. I had to make everyone count twice before I was ready to jump. Closing my eyes, I jumped, and this time I jumped far enough. But I hated every minute of it. I still prefer to have my feet on the ground.

Yet from here until the end it was smooth sailing…or tubing in this case. The rest of the way was all glow worms. Leaning back in my tube, I floated down the river, marveling at the beauty of the light show and the tranquility of my surroundings. But the tunnel’s end came too quickly, and I was left wanting to go back and stare upwards just a bit longer.

I can see why the glow worm caves are one of New Zealand’s biggest tourist attractions. They’re beautiful. The caves are peaceful. Overall, it’s an amazing experience. Three hours seemed too short, but five hours might have been a bit too long. I’d go back to see the glow worms again, and, whether you abseil, tube, or simply cruise in a boat, the glow worms are not to be missed.

How to Visit the Waitomo Glow Worm Caves

Waitomo is 200km south of Auckland. By car, it’s around a two and a half hour drive, while by bus it’s closer to 3 hours. Expect to pay around 35 NZD for a one-way bus ticket from Auckland. A bus from Rotorua will cost around 35 NZD each way.

Once you get to Waitomo, here are some suggested companies to visit the glowworm caves with:

Prices will vary depending on the company and time of year but, generally, water tubing is 145 NZD per person, tubing and abseiling is 250 NZD per person, and a simple boat ride is 51 NZD per person.

While the glowworm caves in Waitamo are not a cheap activity, they are definitely one you should make an effort to do. You won’t regret it!

Book Your Trip to Waitomo: Logistical Tips and Tricks

Book Your Flight
Find a cheap flight to Waitomo by using Skyscanner or Momondo. They are my two favorite search engines. Start with Momondo.

Book Your Accommodation
You can book your hostel in Waitomo with Hostelworld. If you want to stay elsewhere, use Booking.com as they consistently return the cheapest rates. (Here’s the proof.)

Don’t Forget Travel Insurance
Travel insurance will protect you against illness, injury, theft, and cancellations. I never ever go on a trip without it. I’ve been using World Nomads for ten years. You should too.

Need Some Gear?
Check out our resource page for the best companies to use!

Want More Information on Waitomo?
Be sure to visit our robust destination guide on Washington, D.C. for even more planning tips!

Photo credits: 1, 2, 4

Pai: Thailand’s Mountain Backpacker Paradise (or Hell?)

I didn’t like Pai. Wait. Check that — I liked Pai, I just didn’t love Pai. For years, travelers have told me how much they loved Pai. “It’s aaaaa-mazing! It’s so much fun. There’s healthy food, incredible drinks, and beautiful mountains. You’ll never want to leave,” they would explain, as if talking about the Garden of Eden.

When I started traveling this region in 2006, I rarely heard the name Pai mentioned. It was far off the beaten path, and back then I was all about staying on the beaten path. Over the years, Pai grew in fame as a destination where people smoked weed, drank, hiked, and did yoga. Having never been to Pai, I decided on this trip that it was time to finally check out what all the fuss was about.

Driving through northern Thailand into the mountains, my bus twisted and turned. The road to Pai has over 700 turns, but I barely noticed them as I stared out the window at the densely covered hills rolling like waves into the horizon. It was green as far as I could see, and I was again struck by the beauty of the Thai countryside. We drove on for hours as our bus driver auditioned for an unseen F1 judge. But the heart-stopping speed was worth it to once again see such beautiful tropical forests.

As I explored town later that day, I understood why backpackers love Pai, why they write so effusively about it and accentuate the world love when they mention it. Nestled in the mountains and surrounded by waterfalls and wondrous hiking trails, Pai is a tiny town where life moves at a pace that would frustrate even the most laid-back Spaniard. It’s also a Western paradise: there’s organic food, wheatgrass shots, specialty teas, and Western food in shops lining the streets of the town. Additionally, drinks and accommodations are cheap, and the party goes late.

It is a backpacker’s mountain paradise.

But it was often just those things that turned me off to Pai. The town is simply too touristy and culturally washed over for me. I’m not one to hate the tourist trail — I’m writing this in a Western café in Luang Prabang, Laos while having a lemonade. But when people seek out imported food, drink beers from Belgium, and when the street food consists of burgers, bruschetta, and lasagna, I think things have gone too far.

Thailand itself seems to have gotten lost in Pai as waves upon waves of Westerners and Chinese tourists reshape most of town. One had to wander to find Thai restaurants that catered to the local population. (They were delicious and cheaper than the food found at the “market” on Walking Street.)

Of course, Pai is not all bad — there’s plenty to see and do. From town, you can hike to waterfalls, wander through farms and rice terraces where the only sounds are the birds and farm animals, and bike to caves and more waterfalls.

I especially loved the day trip to the Tham Lod caves. In mid-afternoon, you’re driven by one of the many tour operators (don’t worry which, they all go the same way) to Mo Paeng waterfall, where you can go for a swim, and then to Sai Ngam (secret) hot springs, a viewpoint, and finally the caves, where you arrive right before sunset. After a hike along a short path, a Thai guide leads you through three large chambers before you board a raft to float down the river that splices this cave in half. There the cavern opens up as you witness thousands of birds flocking around the entrance. It was mystifying, breathtaking, and the highlight of my time in Pai.

What I loved about Pai was the setting, not the vibe. In a town that charges you to plug your computer in, I found watching bare-chested backpackers get drunk obnoxious. As to fully showcase what Pai had become, my trip was bookended by overhearing two girls discussing whether they are “damp” or not according to Chinese medicine and two older guys discussing how Monsanto and governments are conspiring to depopulate the world.

I can see why so many travelers come here and love it: cheap accommodation, excess partying, the beautiful setting, the good Western food. If I were a first-time traveler and much younger, this travel atmosphere would be great. You get to interact with a lot of other travelers, maybe meet a few locals, and have a wild time.

But it’s not for me anymore.

The Pai of the backpacker is not the Pai that interests me. I love what made Pai famous in the first place: the mountains and the long forest paths to secluded waterfalls, caves, stunning vistas, and a quiet place to read a good book.

This is where Pai shines. This is what makes Pai the place to be. And why you should go to Pai, stay on the outskirts town in a lovely little bungalow, rent a bike, traverse the hills, bathe in cool waterfalls, or explore some caves.

Pais is much more than a haven for Westerner hippies, backpackers, and yoga teachers.

NEXT STEP: Click here to plan your trip to Thailand with my detailed guide.