And Then, I Didn’t Move to Stockholm…

Posted: 08/13/2012 | August 13th, 2012

Remember how I’ve been talking about moving to Sweden since the beginning of the year? Remember when I moved to Stockholm last month? Even though it was only going to be for a few months, I was very excited to relocate to Sweden. I mean, it’s beautiful, it’s clean, the people are nice (and beautiful), the quality of life is great, and did I mention the people here are beautiful? Plus, I was looking forward to learning Swedish, having my own kitchen, and joining a gym.

Well, as you can probably guess from the title of this blog post, I’m not moving to Stockholm anymore.

What happened?

I became the latest victim of Sweden’s crappy housing system. In Sweden, they don’t build apartments to meet demand, so there are always more people who want a place than places exist. This is especially true in Stockholm since most people want to live here. For Swedes, if you want to rent a place, you have to get on a list. There’s also a minimum number of points you need, which determines your place on the list. Or the type of place you can get.

I’m not really sure.

It’s all very confusing. I have no idea how Swedes “get” points. I just know that miracles are usually involved. One of my friends had her sister rent an apartment for her because her sister had “points.” One of the girls who works at my hostel just put herself and her fiancé on this list. They’ll be first in line to get the next available place 15 years from now. It’s so bad, people will put their newborns on the list so they can have an apartment by the time they become adults.

Why is it this way? No idea. Even the Swedes complain about it, and they seem to be at a loss to explain the system to me. “It’s just the way it is,” they say. The right-leaning, more market-based party doesn’t want to change the laws any time soon either. Add the fact that Stockholm doesn’t build new places to meet demand, and you have a recipe for a city with no housing. Sure, this keeps the city old and historic, but it’s a pain the ass. I don’t understand why they don’t throw up some high-rises on the outskirts of town where people might not notice so much.

This housing crunch leads to a huge secondary market, where the owner rents their place out to others at a much higher price. Sometimes the renter then turns around and rents it to someone else for even more money!

So that’s the first problem I’m facing.

The second is that I’m only here until November, and most apartments want a longer commitment than that. (Or they only want a month, and I have no desire to be on the constant hunt for a new apartment every month.) Third, I’m not Swedish, and I think that hurts too, though I can’t prove it.

Over the last month, I’ve found a few places, but they were either too short-term or too expensive, or the owners fell through.

One of the reasons I wanted to move to Stockholm is because I want to settle down, have some roots, build a routine, go to the gym, and do all that other “normal” stuff people do. But after a month here, I find myself in stasis. I’m not moving forward, and without a firm place to live, I don’t want to put money into a gym or Swedish classes.

And with time wasting away, I decided that it’s better to just move on. It’s disappointing, but I can’t sit around forever. Some of my Swedish friends spend months looking for an apartment before they find one. I don’t have that luxury. While it would have been nice to be here, I take comfort in the fact that I tried. I didn’t take the easy road and stay in New York. I took a chance. When you break out of your comfort zone, that’s always a success — no matter what the outcome.

I have no regrets.

On September 2, I’m flying to Portugal for a few weeks before going to Spain. I have two conferences in September: one in Portugal, another in Spain. After that, I’ll head to southern France and then Copenhagen. I have a flight booked to the United States on October 10. I haven’t decided if I’ll be on it or if I’ll change the dates, but for now, I’m going to do a little traveling.

I’m looking forward to putting down some roots, but it looks like that’s just going to have to wait a bit longer. On the flip side, it looks like I’m heading home sooner than expected.

And I’m really OK with that.

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Book Your Trip to Sweden: Logistical Tips and Tricks

Book Your Flight
Find a cheap flight to Sweden by using Skyscanner or Momondo. They are my two favorite search engines. Start with Momondo.

Book Your Accommodation
My favorite places to stay in Stockholm are City Backpackers and Skanstulls Hostel. To book another hostel in Sweden, use Hostelworld. If you want to stay elsewhere, use Booking.com as they consistently return the cheapest rates. (Here’s the proof.)

Don’t Forget Travel Insurance
Travel insurance will protect you against illness, injury, theft, and cancellations. I never ever go on a trip without it. I’ve been using World Nomads for ten years. You should too.

Need Some Gear?
Check out our resource page for the best companies to use!

Want More Information on Sweden?
Be sure to visit our robust destination guide on Sweden for even more planning tips!

The Saturday City: Natchez, Mississippi

As the Southern cotton economy expanded on the back of slave labor in the early 1800s, towns designed to transport the cotton emerged on the Mississippi River: New Orleans, Memphis, Vicksburg, and Natchez.

Located high on the bluffs of the Mississippi River, Natchez, Mississippi, was established by French colonists in 1716. The defensible strategic location ensured that it would become a pivotal center for trade.

In the middle of the 19th century, the city attracted Southern planters, who built mansions to show off their vast wealth from the cotton and sugar cane trade. Natchez was where planters came to escape the heat and isolation of the plantations. It was the Hamptons of the South — the place where the rich relaxed and socialized.

I never heard of Natchez until a few weeks before I visited. While visiting Nashville, I met some local Southern boys at a bar. Fascinated by my road trip plans, they gave me all the information they could on their home state of Mississippi. I mentioned my desire to see old Southern antebellum homes.

“That’s Natchez. If you want antebellum homes, Natchez is the place to be,” the three guys said in unison.

They were right.

Natchez was highlight of my time in the American South. As a former history teacher who specialized in pre–Civil War America, I take a significant interest in this part of the country. I’m fascinated by the hypocrisy and duality of pre–Civil War Southern society.

On the one hand, it was genteel, polite, and formal. On the other, it was brutally racist. Southern egalitarian views of chivalry, equality, and honor extended only to a small segment of society, and they found no hypocrisy in owning slaves. (Note: Reams of thesis papers and books have delved into Southern culture. If you’re looking to learn more, check out Ken Burns’s The Civil War and The Fall of the House of Dixie: The Civil War and the Social Revolution That Transformed the South.)

Natchez remains a beautiful city. Secession sentiment never ran high here, and the city quickly surrendered to the Union Army in 1862. None of the destruction that took place in other cities occurred here, leaving the city intact.

Today, Natchez trades in tourism instead of cotton. Visitors to the historic homes and surrounding national park (Natchez Traces) and gambling on the riverboats sustain this tiny town.

But the old homes are the biggest draw.

By today’s standards, they are tiny suburban homes. You wouldn’t stop and think “Wow, that is a mansion!” But for the period, these homes were an ornate testament to the planters’ great wealth, with high ceilings, intricate wallpaper designs, and multiple stories, and they were filled with fine china, carpets, and furniture.

You can visit 10 of the larger unoccupied homes (one for $12 or three for $30). Of the five I saw, I was big fan of Longwood (the best grounds and most unique home), Rosalie (the most beautiful interior), and Stanton Hall (the prettiest grounds). During the Natchez Pilgrimage in the spring, 24 additional private historical homes open up to the public. The costumed guides — some descendants of the original owners — explain the history of the home, their family, and the region. It’s the city’s biggest annual event.

There are also a number of self-guided walking tours that wind through the city. Along the way, historic markers give you the history of the buildings, neighborhoods, and the residents who called them home.

There is King’s Tavern, built in 1769, the oldest bar in the city (and, according to legend, the most haunted). Walking toward the riverboat casino, you’ll come across what is left of Natchez Under the Hill. This one-time bustling dock area of the city was where dockworkers, prostitutes, and drunkards socialized. It was the city’s underbelly during the boom times. Now a sanitized street of restaurants and bars, it does still contain the oldest bar on the Mississippi River, Under the Hill Saloon.

Natchez is beautiful and elegant. I loved strolling around the streets, marveling at the beautiful homes, stopping at King’s Tavern for wine while avoiding ghosts, and sitting in the park as the sun set over the Mississippi.

The downside to Natchez is that it’s expensive. There are no hostels, and I couldn’t find any Couchsurfing hosts, only hotels and B&Bs. Though you can stay in one of the antebellum homes, they aren’t cheap, costing about $120-160 per night (including breakfast).

The upside? While accommodation is expensive, food and drinks are relatively cheap, with a number of sandwich and BBQ joints in the city offering meals for under $10.

Natchez can be seen in a weekend. It may not be a budget travel destination, but if you are looking to learn about American history, see beautiful homes, and visit a destination off the beaten path for most travelers (visitors here tend to be from the surrounding region), visit Natchez.

An Introduction to Taiwan

There’s no place quite like Taiwan. The Taiwanese are a warm, hospitable group of people who never fail to be courteous and helpful.

The national pastime in Taiwan seems to be eating. The Taiwanese, both adults and children, are very work and study-oriented. Their lifestyles demand healthy food that is available on the go. As a result, eating in Taiwan has become an epicurean’s playground. The food is an international smorgasbord of culinary delights, with a budget in mind for every wallet.

For the true pleasure-seekers, and those with time to spare, there are international five-star restaurants of every variety throughout the city of Taipei. Night markets are also a huge draw for gastronomes. Whether you’re there to sample local Taiwanese treats or whether you’re there for some good old-fashioned dining, Taiwan’s night markets promise to keep your belly full while your wallet remains relatively unscathed. Stinky tofu, oyster omelettes, noodles of every variety, and the savory aroma of delicately brewed local teas should be at the top of your hit list.

You’ll be hard-pressed to find another land mass the size of Taiwan with so many topographical differences and delightful hideaways. There is something truly magical around every corner in Taiwan. Check out Taiwan’s northern coastline for some incredible lunar-like landscapes at Yehliu Geopark, or head to the beaches of Kenting on the southern tip of the island. Don’t forget to have a dip in any of the numerous hot spring resorts scattered around the island. The beautiful islands of Penghu just off Taiwan’s western coastline won’t fail to delight your sense of wanderlust and are especially well-known for their beautiful golden beaches. If you want to continue journeying off the beaten track, head to the lush subtropical climates of Orchid Island and Green Island just off the southeastern coast.

If it’s rugged outdoor travel you’re looking for, day and weekend excursions can easily be made. Grab a scooter and head up into the green mountains running in five ranges from the northern to the southern tip of the island. Climb to the summit of beautiful Jade Mountain and watch the sun rise. This beautiful peak, at 3,952 meters, makes Taiwan the world’s fourth-highest island. Try some eco-trekking in Taroko National Park, where you can hike through mountainous terrain and gorges or stop to dip your feet in swiftly flowing mountain rivers. To really enjoy Taiwan’s majestic beauty, don’t forget Taiwan’s Eastern coastline, which has some of the most dramatic coastal scenery in the world, from plunging sea cliffs and splashing surf to beaches, nature preserves and rural towns a world away from their big-city brothers.

Speaking of big cities, the northern city of Taipei has something to offer everyone. Check out the feeding frenzy of the markets or enjoy a cool stroll around Ximending, Taipei’s answer to Japan’s Shibuya. Di-hua Street during Chinese New Year offers plenty of local flavor and culture as people get ready for the holidays. Museums, art galleries, mega-department stores, Taipei 101, and a plethora of beautiful parks and delightful walking paths mean you’ll never be stuck on a Saturday afternoon with nothing to do. With a temple, a KFC, tea stations and noodle shops on every corner, you’ll never lack for cheap food in your belly and a taste of local culture.

Taiwan, La Isle Formoso, may be a small island but it contains a lot of sights and sounds to keep any visitor occupied.

Carrie Marshall has been living in Taiwan for over 3 years. A recent newlywed, you can read about her adventures and life in Taiwan at her blog, My Several Worlds.