A Visitor's Guide to Edinburgh: What to See, Do, & Where to Stay in 2019

Updated: 1/5/2019 | January 5th, 2019

Updated: 1/5/2019 | January 5th, 2019

The cobbled streets, tight quarters, the castle, the Gothic architecture of many of its buildings —Edinburgh’s beauty is inescapable.

Originally, I visited Edinburgh for my birthday back in 2009 and, enjoying the city’s beauty and history, have been coming back ever since, even spending a new year’s here a few years back! I absolutely love this city and its people.

Edinburgh has been the capital of Scotland since the 15th century (though people have lived here since 8,500 BC). The city was destroyed by the English in 1544, but eventually recovered and became the center of the Scottish Reformation in the 16th century. In the 19th century, Edinburgh lost it’s status as the #1 city in Scotland to the manufacturing city of Glasgow. However, Edinburgh was famous for its literary figures and became an educational and literary capital growing rapidly during the later 19th century.

In the 20th century, Edinburgh remained a city of banking, and education, growing rapidly in the later part of the century and early 21st century thanks to tourism and just a growing interest in Scotland.

Edinburgh is a small city with friendly people and history everywhere. I love walking down the small, cobblestone streets, and getting lost in the little squares and back alleys of the city. Here, locals will say hi to you and chat you up over a pint in the local pub.  It’s a magical town that inspires you at every turn.

If you’re going to visit Edinburgh, here are some of the best things to see and do in Edinburgh on your trip:

The Royal Mile

This historic street stretches from the Castle to the palace and is the most popular street in the city. It’s the main thoroughfare in the Old City and is a great place to people watch, sightsee, listen to buskers, and grab a bite to eat.

This historic street stretches from the Castle to the palace and is the most popular street in the city. It’s the main thoroughfare in the Old City and is a great place to people watch, sightsee, listen to buskers, and grab a bite to eat.

St. Giles Cathedral

This not-technically a cathedral (cathedrals need a bishop and this one has none) is very old and beautiful. Also known as the High Kirk of Scotland, St. Giles Cathedral was founded in the 12th century (though little remains from that period) and is the primary place of worship for the Church of Scotland. The cathedral is located between the Castle and the Palace, it’s a good place to see stunning Gothic architecture and good stained glassed windows.

This not-technically a cathedral (cathedrals need a bishop and this one has none) is very old and beautiful. Also known as the High Kirk of Scotland, St. Giles Cathedral was founded in the 12th century (though little remains from that period) and is the primary place of worship for the Church of Scotland. The cathedral is located between the Castle and the Palace, it’s a good place to see stunning Gothic architecture and good stained glassed windows.

High Street, +44 131-225-4363, stgilescathedral.org.uk. Open Monday-Friday from 9am-7pm (5pm during the off season), Saturday from 9am-5pm (closed during the off season), and 1pm-5pm on Sunday. Guided rooftop tours are 6 GBP per person, and a photo permit for the church (interior) is 2 GBP.

Take a ghost tour

Edinburgh is actually considered one of the

Edinburgh is actually considered one of the most haunted cities in the world . In the 17th century, Lord Advocate Sir George Mackenzie was appointed to round up religious dissidents. Some 18,000 people were rounded up and killed on his watch. the story goes that his tomb was disturbed by a homeless man, releasing his vengeful spirit. Since then of 500 people have claimed to have seen (or been attacked!) by the ghost of Mackenzie. This has led to the popularity of haunted walking tours around the city. There are plenty of different tours to choose from, including walking tours, underground tours, and bus tours (available during both the day and night). Some of the best companies to check out at Get Your Guide Mercat , and New Europe

Edinburgh Castle

The roots of Edinburgh castle were likely established around the 2nd century, though it wasn’t until the 7th where we start to see the formations of a castle take shape. Today’s castle was built in the 12th century, though many parts have been reconstructed over the years. While it’s not the best castle in the world, it has an interesting history, a daily cannon fire, great views, and historic artifacts in it. It’s definitely worth a tour if you’re into history or architecture!

The roots of Edinburgh castle were likely established around the 2nd century, though it wasn’t until the 7th where we start to see the formations of a castle take shape. Today’s castle was built in the 12th century, though many parts have been reconstructed over the years. While it’s not the best castle in the world, it has an interesting history, a daily cannon fire, great views, and historic artifacts in it. It’s definitely worth a tour if you’re into history or architecture!

Castlehill, +44 131-225-9846, edinburghcastle.scot. Open daily from 9:30-6pm (5pm in the winter). Admission is 18.50 GBP for adults (17 GBP if you book in advance) with discounts available for children.

The Scott Monument

This Gothic tower stands an impressive 61 meters high and is actually the second tallest monument to a writer in the world (the first is in Cuba). Sir Walter Scott was a novelist, playwright, and historian known for such books as Ivanhoe and Rob Roy. For a good view of the city, climb up the stairs!

This Gothic tower stands an impressive 61 meters high and is actually the second tallest monument to a writer in the world (the first is in Cuba). Sir Walter Scott was a novelist, playwright, and historian known for such books as Ivanhoe and Rob Roy. For a good view of the city, climb up the stairs!

E. Princes St Gardens, +44 131-529-4068, edinburghmuseums.org.uk/venue/scott-monument. Open daily from 10am-9pm (4pm in the winter). Admission is 8 GBP for adults with discounts available.<

The Elephant House

The cafe became super popular for one reason: Harry Potter. J.K Rowling spent many an hour here writing her epic Harry Potter saga. Once that fact became known, Harry Potter fans from all around the globe have flocked here to see the place with their own two eyes. More often than not, there are people outside taking photos and even a line to get in!

The cafe became super popular for one reason: Harry Potter. J.K Rowling spent many an hour here writing her epic Harry Potter saga. Once that fact became known, Harry Potter fans from all around the globe have flocked here to see the place with their own two eyes. More often than not, there are people outside taking photos and even a line to get in!

21 George IV Bridge, +44 131-220-5355, elephanthouse.biz. Open Monday-Thursday from 8am-10pm, Friday from 8am-11pm, Saturday from 9am-11pm, and Sunday from 9am-10pm.

Rosslyn Chapel

Built in the 15th century,

Built in the 15th century, this famous chapel is a Da Vinci Code lover’s dream. There are many (alleged) links to both the Freemasons and the Knights Templar. Even if you don’t believe in any of that, the detailed carvings are impressive and the chapel’s long history make it worth checking out. (It’s not far from the city and a good excuse to get out of Edinburgh for a bit!)

Chapel Loan, +44 131-440-2159, rosslynchapel.com. Open daily from 9:30am-5pm (6pm in the summer). Admission is 9 GBP, with discounts avilable. Interior photography isn’t permitted

Museum of Edinburgh

When you’re strolling down the Royal Mile, don’t forget to check out the Museum of Edinburgh. It will give you a much a better understanding of the city’s history and how it became the city that it is today. Best of all, this museum is free!

When you’re strolling down the Royal Mile, don’t forget to check out the Museum of Edinburgh. It will give you a much a better understanding of the city’s history and how it became the city that it is today. Best of all, this museum is free!

edinburghmuseums.org.uk/venue/museum-edinburgh. Open daily from 10am-5pm. Admission is free but donations are welcome.

Hike to Arthur’s Seat

If you want a sweeping view of the city you’re going to have to put in the work. It’s not a particularly difficult walk, but some parts can be a bit steep. The wind can get incredibly strong up there, but it’s the perfect place for a picnic to watch the sunset if you feel like stretching your legs.

If you want a sweeping view of the city you’re going to have to put in the work. It’s not a particularly difficult walk, but some parts can be a bit steep. The wind can get incredibly strong up there, but it’s the perfect place for a picnic to watch the sunset if you feel like stretching your legs.

Visit the Writer’s Museum

This museum covers the lives of 3 of the most famous Scottish writers: Waler Scott, Robert Burns, and Robert Louis Stevenson. You’ll learn about their personal lives as well as their work. There are numerous paintings, writings, and personal objects from their lives. It’s a neat museum that sheds some light into the history of some of Scotland’s most successful writers.

This museum covers the lives of 3 of the most famous Scottish writers: Waler Scott, Robert Burns, and Robert Louis Stevenson. You’ll learn about their personal lives as well as their work. There are numerous paintings, writings, and personal objects from their lives. It’s a neat museum that sheds some light into the history of some of Scotland’s most successful writers.

Lawnmarket — Lady Stair’s Close, +44 131-529-4901, edinburghmuseums.org.uk/venue/writers-museum. Open daily from 10am-5pm. Admission is free.

Scottish National Gallery

This museum first opened in the 1850’s and is home to Scotland’s national collection of fine art. If you want to get a deeper understanding of Scottish history and culture, this is a great place to dive in.

This museum first opened in the 1850’s and is home to Scotland’s national collection of fine art. If you want to get a deeper understanding of Scottish history and culture, this is a great place to dive in.

The Mound, +44 131-624-6200, nationalgalleries.org/visit/scottish-national-gallery. Open daily from 10am-5pm (7pm on Thursdays). Admission is free, though some exhibits cost money.

The Scotch Whisky Experience

If you’re a fan of Scotch, you’ll not want to pass up a whiskey tasting. This is one of the best options in town, offering up tours, tastings, and a full day training school. Located on the Royal Mile, you can try all sorts of different local whiskeys. Since this isn’t a distillery you’re free to browse selections from across the country, making this a great choice for someone looking to sample a wider variety of whiskey.

If you’re a fan of Scotch, you’ll not want to pass up a whiskey tasting. This is one of the best options in town, offering up tours, tastings, and a full day training school. Located on the Royal Mile, you can try all sorts of different local whiskeys. Since this isn’t a distillery you’re free to browse selections from across the country, making this a great choice for someone looking to sample a wider variety of whiskey.

354 Castlehill, +44 131-220-0441, scotchwhiskyexperience.co.uk. Open daily from 10am-5pm (open later in the summer). A basic tour is 27 GBP, with discounts available. For their more comprehensive tours, prices will be higher and you’ll need to book in advance.

Do a pub crawl

If you’re planning on doing the rounds and searching for the city’s best drink, join a pub crawl. They are a great way to meet other travelers and you’ll be taken to bars, pubs, and nightclubs you might not have discovered otherwise. There are plenty of available pub crawls in the city, but the biggest (and best) is the Edinburgh Pub Crawl. They take you to 7 bars and your ticket includes 6 free drinks as well as some additional discounts.

If you’re planning on doing the rounds and searching for the city’s best drink, join a pub crawl. They are a great way to meet other travelers and you’ll be taken to bars, pubs, and nightclubs you might not have discovered otherwise. There are plenty of available pub crawls in the city, but the biggest (and best) is the Edinburgh Pub Crawl. They take you to 7 bars and your ticket includes 6 free drinks as well as some additional discounts.

69 Cowgate, +44 7547-022-182, edinburghpubcrawl.com. Pub crawls occur every night. Tickets are 7 GBP.

***If you’re planning to visit 

If you’re planning to visit Edinburgh , this list will help you get your trip started. It is one of my favorite places in Europe. While the city is a major tourist destination, it lacks a lot of the crowds that swamp other cities in Europe (except during major festivals, then this place is a zoo). And best of all? Edinburgh is not that expensive either! It’s a win-win!

Book Your Trip to Edinburgh: Logistical Tips and Tricks

Book Your Flight
Find a cheap flight to Edinburgh by using Skyscanner or Momondo. They are my two favorite search engines. Start with Momondo.

Book Your Accommodation
You can book your hostel in Edinburgh with Hostelworld. My suggested place is Castle Rock. If you want to stay elsewhere, use Booking.com as they consistently return the cheapest rates. (Here’s the proof.)

Don’t Forget Travel Insurance
Travel insurance will protect you against illness, injury, theft, and cancellations. I never ever go on a trip without it. I’ve been using World Nomads for ten years. You should too.

Need Some Gear?
Check out our resource page for the best companies to use!

Want More Information on Edinburgh?
Be sure to visit our robust destination guide on Edinburgh for even more planning tips!

Photo Credit: 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15

Finding Love and Home in Tbilisi, Georgia

Post: 9/12/18 | September 12th, 2018

Post: 9/12/18 | September 12th, 2018

“When did you first hear of Georgia?” Mako asked after a long drag from her cigarette. She was a Georgian tour guide helping my friend Dave, who was also in the country. We were drinking wine outside Fabrika, an old Soviet fabric factory now converted into a multi-use center with bars, restaurants, co-working spaces, shops, artist studios, and a hostel.

“Hmm…” I replied. “That’s a good question. On one level, I’ve known about Georgia for a long time, because, well, I know my geography. But as a place that was more than just a name on a map, I would have to say it’s only been in the last few years — when I started thinking of more unique and off-the-beaten-path places to visit — that I really thought ‘Hmm, Georgia? That could be interesting!’”

When I left London for a trip to Azerbaijan in June, I added nearby Georgia to the itinerary too. Friends spoke highly of the country, and I wanted to see its mountain towns, beaches, and historic cities, and to taste the food and wine I had heard so much about.

My original plan was to spend about a little over a week there, hitting some of the highlights and whetting my appetite for another trip (to me, a week in a country is just never enough time).

But, after a change in plans that required me to head home earlier than expected, I only had time to see the capital of Tbilisi.

From the moment I got off the bus from Azerbaijan, I was in love. Yes, that’s a cliché. To fall for a place right away. But sometimes a destination just hits you to your core right way. The energy — the essence — of where you are just flows through your body and you feel like you’re coming home to a place you didn’t even realize was home.

It’s as if a part of you had always been there, and you were simply returning to make yourself whole again.

Over the next few days, that feeling only increased as I actually began exploring the city.

Before arriving, I had pictured a grimy old city with crumbling, ugly Soviet-era buildings and graffiti. In my mind, it was still frozen in the immediate fall of the Soviet empire.

Instead, I found a beautifully preserved Old Town with cobblestone streets and stunning buildings with ornate balconies; lots of spacious parks, wide streets, eclectic artist spaces, and funky cafés; and modern and sometimes futuristic architecture. It was a lot more like Europe than I had anticipated.

I spent my first day wandering the old town. I gazed at the Metekhi Church with its giant equestrian statue of King Vakhtang Gorgasali overlooking the Mtkvari River. This is where the king built his palace when he made Tbilisi his capital in the fifth century. (Legend has it that he founded Tbilisi while hunting and discovered the sulfur baths, but a city existed here long before he came along! He just revived it.) The simple, domed-shaped brick building is popular with locals, as legend says the fifth-century martyr St. Shushanik was buried here.

From there I walked across the bridge, toward the famous sulfur baths, a collection of brick-domed buildings containing subterranean bathhouses. These baths helped make Tbilisi famous, as the waters are claimed to help soothe symptoms in chronically ill patients, like arthritic pain or poor blood circulation. There used to be 63 of these baths in Tbilisi, but there are only a handful left now. They are still wildly popular, though I don’t see the charm in smelling like rotten eggs. (But I’m a weirdo, so what do I know?)

These bathhouses straddle a small river that feeds them and then meanders through a canyon that you can follow to the amazing Dzveli Tbilisi sulfur waterfall. There, the sound of the city melts away, and you feel more like you’re in a national park than a national capital.

I wandered some more and located the entrance to Tbilisi’s gigantic National Botanical Garden, where I found a zip line, tons more waterfalls and rivers to swim in (which, given the high temps during my visit, were well utilized by locals), hiking paths, and flowers and shrubbery. Amidst this peace, I often had to remind myself that I was in a chaotic major city and not some little quiet mountain town.

From there it was up to the Narikala Fortress, which dominates the skyline. Dating back to the fourth century, it was once a Persian citadel. Most of the walls were built in the eighth century, but in 1827 an explosion of Russian ammunition stored there wrecked the whole thing. The cliffs the ruins are on offer the best views of the entire city. You can see for miles, which is probably why the site was chosen for the citadel. A cable car connects it with Rike Park on the other side of the Mtkvari River.

The next day, I explored the city’s history museums (which, to my surprise, had a good amount of English translations). I highly recommend the Georgian National Museum, which has a detailed exhibit on the country’s history; the Nikoloz Baratashvili Memorial House-Museum, which houses materials related to the life and work of the romantic poet, period furniture, folk musical instruments, paintings, and lots of history about 19th-century Georgia; and the David Baazov Museum, which talks about Jewish history in Georgia (Israel and Georgia have a close relationship).

However, after having hiked a lot in Azerbaijan, walking in the stifling summer heat of Tbilisi wasn’t that exciting to me. So, after a day and half of sightseeing, I found myself indoors drinking tea, writing, consuming a (un)healthy amount of wine, gorging on food at Fabrika, talking to other travelers, getting to the know the staff at a local coffee shop, and hanging out with Dave.

I can’t say I really know Tbilisi. Sure, I can get around the subway now. I have an idea of what things cost. I know a little about the city and country. I met some cool people. I have a vague sense of place

But I don’t know it the way I know New York or Paris or Bangkok or a thousand other place I’ve lived or spent years traveling to.

But I feel like I know it.

Tbilisi is a city bursting with activity. A city of art and history. Of enjoyment. Of an energy that seemed to say, “Come enjoy the good life over wine. Don’t fret over things — just be.”

Tbilisi’s energy is my energy.

We are a match made in heaven.

And, though it’s terrible to end a travel article with the cliché “I can’t wait to go back,” I honestly can’t wait to go back.

I felt at home in that city.

And everyone loves the feeling of returning home.

Book Your Trip to Tbilisi: Logistical Tips and Tricks

Book Your Flight
Find a cheap flight to Tbilisi by using Skyscanner or Momondo. They are my two favorite search engines. Start with Momondo.

Book Your Accommodation
I highly recommend the hostel and co-working space Fabrika. To book another hostel in Tbilisi, use Hostelworld. If you want to stay elsewhere, use Booking.com as they consistently return the cheapest rates. (Here’s the proof.)

Don’t Forget Travel Insurance
Travel insurance will protect you against illness, injury, theft, and cancellations. I never ever go on a trip without it. I’ve been using World Nomads for ten years. You should too.

Need Some Gear?
Check out our resource page for the best companies to use!

Want More Information on Georgia?
Be sure to visit our robust Georgia travel guide for even more planning tips!

The Saturday City: Natchez, Mississippi

As the Southern cotton economy expanded on the back of slave labor in the early 1800s, towns designed to transport the cotton emerged on the Mississippi River: New Orleans, Memphis, Vicksburg, and Natchez.

Located high on the bluffs of the Mississippi River, Natchez, Mississippi, was established by French colonists in 1716. The defensible strategic location ensured that it would become a pivotal center for trade.

In the middle of the 19th century, the city attracted Southern planters, who built mansions to show off their vast wealth from the cotton and sugar cane trade. Natchez was where planters came to escape the heat and isolation of the plantations. It was the Hamptons of the South — the place where the rich relaxed and socialized.

I never heard of Natchez until a few weeks before I visited. While visiting Nashville, I met some local Southern boys at a bar. Fascinated by my road trip plans, they gave me all the information they could on their home state of Mississippi. I mentioned my desire to see old Southern antebellum homes.

“That’s Natchez. If you want antebellum homes, Natchez is the place to be,” the three guys said in unison.

They were right.

Natchez was highlight of my time in the American South. As a former history teacher who specialized in pre–Civil War America, I take a significant interest in this part of the country. I’m fascinated by the hypocrisy and duality of pre–Civil War Southern society.

On the one hand, it was genteel, polite, and formal. On the other, it was brutally racist. Southern egalitarian views of chivalry, equality, and honor extended only to a small segment of society, and they found no hypocrisy in owning slaves. (Note: Reams of thesis papers and books have delved into Southern culture. If you’re looking to learn more, check out Ken Burns’s The Civil War and The Fall of the House of Dixie: The Civil War and the Social Revolution That Transformed the South.)

Natchez remains a beautiful city. Secession sentiment never ran high here, and the city quickly surrendered to the Union Army in 1862. None of the destruction that took place in other cities occurred here, leaving the city intact.

Today, Natchez trades in tourism instead of cotton. Visitors to the historic homes and surrounding national park (Natchez Traces) and gambling on the riverboats sustain this tiny town.

But the old homes are the biggest draw.

By today’s standards, they are tiny suburban homes. You wouldn’t stop and think “Wow, that is a mansion!” But for the period, these homes were an ornate testament to the planters’ great wealth, with high ceilings, intricate wallpaper designs, and multiple stories, and they were filled with fine china, carpets, and furniture.

You can visit 10 of the larger unoccupied homes (one for $12 or three for $30). Of the five I saw, I was big fan of Longwood (the best grounds and most unique home), Rosalie (the most beautiful interior), and Stanton Hall (the prettiest grounds). During the Natchez Pilgrimage in the spring, 24 additional private historical homes open up to the public. The costumed guides — some descendants of the original owners — explain the history of the home, their family, and the region. It’s the city’s biggest annual event.

There are also a number of self-guided walking tours that wind through the city. Along the way, historic markers give you the history of the buildings, neighborhoods, and the residents who called them home.

There is King’s Tavern, built in 1769, the oldest bar in the city (and, according to legend, the most haunted). Walking toward the riverboat casino, you’ll come across what is left of Natchez Under the Hill. This one-time bustling dock area of the city was where dockworkers, prostitutes, and drunkards socialized. It was the city’s underbelly during the boom times. Now a sanitized street of restaurants and bars, it does still contain the oldest bar on the Mississippi River, Under the Hill Saloon.

Natchez is beautiful and elegant. I loved strolling around the streets, marveling at the beautiful homes, stopping at King’s Tavern for wine while avoiding ghosts, and sitting in the park as the sun set over the Mississippi.

The downside to Natchez is that it’s expensive. There are no hostels, and I couldn’t find any Couchsurfing hosts, only hotels and B&Bs. Though you can stay in one of the antebellum homes, they aren’t cheap, costing about $120-160 per night (including breakfast).

The upside? While accommodation is expensive, food and drinks are relatively cheap, with a number of sandwich and BBQ joints in the city offering meals for under $10.

Natchez can be seen in a weekend. It may not be a budget travel destination, but if you are looking to learn about American history, see beautiful homes, and visit a destination off the beaten path for most travelers (visitors here tend to be from the surrounding region), visit Natchez.

17 Secrets of the Great Wall of China

Like a writhing dragon’s tail, the Great Wall of China snakes its way across China’s northern border. As its name suggests, the Great Wall is an imposing architectural marvel, and it’s often hailed as one of the greatest man-made wonders of the world.

The Great Wall of China’s history stretches back more than 2,000 years, to a time before China was even a unified country.

But the Great Wall of China isn’t really a single great wall. “The first thing to note,” travel expert Stan Godwyn told Travel + Leisure, “is that it’s actually a series of walls and fortifications.”

Godwyn typically arranges for clients to visit one of four main sections — Badaling (the most well-known and accessible for travelers of varying mobility), Mutianyu (well-restored but much less crowded), Simatai (a crumbling, rugged stretch of wall), and Jinshanling (for serious hikers).

Despite its cultural and historic importance, it wasn’t until 1987 that the Great Wall of China was listed as a World Heritage site by UNESCO.

Want to discover more Great Wall of China facts and bits of history? Read on for our definitive guide to this bucket list attraction and ancient marvel.

Explore the Tumultuous History of the European Union on Its 60th Anniversary

With Brexit negotiations set to begin in the coming months and a host of controversial candidates on the ballot for upcoming European elections, the 60th anniversary of the European Union comes at a fraught moment for the continent.

Despite challenges to its authority, however, the EU and its governing branches remain some of the most powerful voices in Europe today, regulating everything from trade to foreign visas.

To evaluate the successes and failures of the EU in its current form and to envision what is in store for the future, readers need to go back to its very foundations, which took place in the wake of World War II.

Following the Paris Peace Treaties in 1945 that ended years of war among neighboring nations in Europe, the continent was grieving the loss of its dead while struggling to rebuild entire towns and even cities that had been practically leveled to the ground.

Lawmakers throughout the continent and throughout the world searched for preventive solutions to stop anything nearing the bloodshed of the recent war. 

While the EU began as a group of trade unions, some have argued that from the start it always aimed to be much more: It sought to serve as a safeguard against World War III.

A Look at the History of the NYC Subway on Its 112th Birthday

Thursday marks 112 years since the roots of the subway system were laid out between Manhattan’s 145th Street and City Hall stations. In the past century, the subway has undergone several changes—mainly it just keeps getting bigger and bigger—but there are some things that will always remain the same.

Here we celebrate the Metropolitan Transit Authority with one eye on the past and another towards its ever-growing future.

Oct 27,1904, the roots of NYCs present transit system were set in place-112 yrs ago subway service began btwn City Hall and 145 St/Broadway. pic.twitter.com/xC1sfqyMJ2

— NYCT Subway (@NYCTSubway) October 27, 2016