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2019年8月5日星期一

10 Reasons Why I Love Thailand (And Why You Need to Visit)

11 Reasons Why I Love Thailand11 Reasons Why I Love ThailandUpdated: 8/5/2019 | August 5th, 2019

I’ve been to Thailand more times than I can count. I’ve lived in Bangkok twice, I’ve run tours through the country, and if I stay away for more than a year, I feel as if a piece of me is missing.

I love visiting Thailand.

It holds a special place in my heart.

People often ask me why I return to places I’ve already visited instead of exploring somewhere new. Well, that’s an easy answer: because I feel attached to them. I feel at home when I’m visiting them.

And Thailand is probably the one place outside of the U.S. where I feel most at home.

And why do I love Thailand so much?

Here are ten reasons why Thailand is one of the best countries in the world to visit – and what you can look forward to when you travel there:

1. The delicious food

delicious street food in Bangkok, Thailanddelicious street food in Bangkok, Thailand
When people say they like Thai food but haven’t been to Thailand, I can’t help but think, “You’ve never really experienced Thai food.” Thai food in Thailand is leagues better than anywhere else in the world. The spices, the fragrances, the variety of flavors. Your mouth dances with flavor when you eat here. There are dishes and styles in the country that you simply can’t get anywhere else.

All over the streets of Thailand, outdoor stalls serve up the cheapest and best meals you can find. You’ll be hunched over a bowl of noodles next to a little kid, office worker, and bank president. Street food in Thailand is the great equalizer and fundamental to Thai culture. And no matter what time of the day it is, there’s always food available somewhere.

Moreover, Thailand has world-class international food (and a few Michelin starred restaurants) thanks to the hordes of tourists and expats that come here. Some of my favorite sushi restaurants are in Bangkok, and you can find amazing halal and Indian food in the downtown Sukhumvit area.

Thailand is a foodie’s wet dream.

2. The warm weather

delicious street food in Bangkok, Thailanddelicious street food in Bangkok, Thailand
I love the sun a lot (much to my mother’s and my dermatologist’s dismay). I think after shoveling snow in Boston for the vast majority of my life, I gravitate to the sun because, in the tropics, there’s no snow. I love the heat, and the fact that it’s always hot and humid in Thailand appeals to me. It’s never “jacket” weather here.

(OK, that’s not entirely true. In January, I do wear a jacket. It gets pretty close to 20° C here. You can always tell the expats from the tourists in Bangkok because the expats are the ones wearing sweaters and jackets in January. I once had a friend visit me and I refused to turn on the A/C in my apartment. It was far too cold for that!)

3. The friendly locals

delicious street food in Bangkok, Thailanddelicious street food in Bangkok, Thailand
Thais are some of the nicest people I have ever met. They’re always happy, always smiling, extremely polite, and always helpful. They’ll help you out if you’re in trouble and help translate for you if you can’t speak Thai. They treat you well, and whenever I come back here, the local shop owners whose stores I frequent greet me with a warm smile and a big hug. Once a friend, always a friend. I always feel safe in Thailand. Thailand is one of the few countries I feel comfortable leaving my laptop out while I go to the bathroom.

4. It’s the perfect travel hub

Thailand is smack-dab in the middle of everything. It’s three hours to Hong Kong, two hours to Singapore, four hours to Bali, and half way between Australia and Europe. You can get to a lot of places easily from Thailand, which, for a traveler like myself, is really appealing.

5. The postcard-perfect tropical islands

delicious street food in Bangkok, Thailanddelicious street food in Bangkok, Thailand
I love the beach. I can sit on the sand and go for a swim for hours upon end. While Thailand has been developed for years and many of the best beaches have been ruined through uncontrolled development, you can still find some pristine, picture-perfect islands and beaches around the country.

I particularly love Ko Chang, Ko Kood, Surin Island, Ko Adang, and Ko Lanta. The best islands are down south near the Malaysian border. They all look like the above picture.

As long as you avoid the super touristy and overdeveloped beaches (and there are many), you’ll find the postcard perfect beaches you’ve already dreamed of!

6. The lush jungles

delicious street food in Bangkok, Thailanddelicious street food in Bangkok, Thailand
As much as I enjoy sitting on the beach, I also love to hike through jungles, and Thailand has some of the most beautiful and lush ones I’ve seen. From the jungles and elephants in Khao Yai National Park, to the famed lake of Khao Sok in the south, to the famous jungle and hill tribe treks near Chiang Mai, you can get your tropical jungle fix very easily here.

They may not be the wild and untamed jungles of some places in Borneo or the middle of Africa, but they still offer amazing views, dense forests, waterfalls to cool off in, and an interesting variety of wildlife.

7. The international environment

delicious street food in Bangkok, Thailanddelicious street food in Bangkok, Thailand
Thailand is a country where you can get as local or foreign as you like. Because of all the tourists and expats who live here, the country is very cosmopolitan and international. There are global food chains, international restaurants and stores, Starbucks, and Hollywood movies.

Thailand is a melting pot of people, and you’ll find people from around the world. I’ve made friends here from France, Germany, Argentina, Australia, New Zealand, Japan, and Israel, just to name a few.

8. The convenience

Thailand is convenient. Hungry at 3:30am? There’s someone around to sell you food. Need to take a bus to Vietnam? That can be easily arranged. Need to go shopping at some strange hour? There’s a store open. Pharmacy at 2am? Got that too. Thailand is just an easy place to live and move around in. And in Bangkok, you never have to wait for a taxi.


(HEY! Are you planning a trip to Thailand? Don’t forget to check out the book I wrote about the country. Click here to travel it like a pro!)

9. Bangkok

delicious street food in Bangkok, Thailanddelicious street food in Bangkok, Thailand
I hated Bangkok the first few times I traveled there. It wasn’t until I moved there that I fell in love with it. Bangkok, it turns out, is an easy city to live in. There’s lots to do, plenty of events, great bars, and amazing food (see above), and it’s easy to get around (except during rush hour). I love cities where there’s always something to do. No matter what time of the day or day of the week, you can always find something to do in Bangkok.

I began to love Bangkok when I got know it beyond the temples and the tourist trail. When I found hidden markets and amazing street stalls frequented only by locals, became friends with residents, and understood how it operated, I knew why people loved Bangkok so much.

Bangkok is not a city for tourists.

It’s for residents.

Take some time here and enjoy it!

10. It’s cheap!

Thailand is cheap to visit and cheap to live in. Yesterday, I spent $4 USD for all of my food for the day, including some drinks and snacks. Most food from the street vendors costs $1. I can get a private room for $10 USD per night or a bungalow in front of the beach for $15–20 USD. An apartment in downtown Bangkok costs $300 a month, and it’s still bigger than what I need. Thailand simply offers incredible value for your money.

A few years back, I was telling my friend that after a month bouncing around the islands, I had spent around 40,000 baht ($1,400 USD). He was shocked! “How the hell could you spend so much money in one month!” he exclaimed.

If you’re traveling here on a backpacker’s budget, you can get by for about $30 USD a day!

***When people ask me what my favorite country is, I always say Thailand. Though I wonder how you can pick a favorite country. Each one is amazing in its own right. No country is really better than another, just different. However, Thailand has a special place in my heart. We have a long history together. I’ll always return to this country.

When people ask me what my favorite country is, I always say Thailand. Though I wonder how you can pick a favorite country. Each one is amazing in its own right. No country is really better than another, just different. However, Thailand has a special place in my heart. We have a long history together. I’ll always return to this country.

If you’re looking to visit Thailand, here are some resources we have to help you:

Book Your Trip: Logistical Tips and Tricks

Book Your Flight
Find a cheap flight by using Skyscanner or Momondo. They are my two favorite search engines because they search websites and airlines around the globe so you always know no stone is left unturned.

Book Your Accommodation
You can book your hostel with Hostelworld. If you want to stay somewhere other than a hostel, use Booking.com as they consistently return the cheapest rates for guesthouses and cheap hotels. I use them all the time.

Don’t Forget Travel Insurance
Travel insurance will protect you against illness, injury, theft, and cancellations. It’s comprehensive protection in case anything goes wrong. I never go on a trip without it as I’ve had to use it many times in the past. I’ve been using World Nomads for ten years. My favorite companies that offer the best service and value are:

  • World Nomads (for everyone below 70)
  • Insure My Trip (for those over 70)

Looking for the best companies to save money with?
Check out my resource page for the best companies to use when you travel! I list all the ones I use to save money when I travel – and I think will help you too!

2019年8月2日星期五

Finding Love and Home in Tbilisi, Georgia

A view overlooking Tbilisi

A view overlooking Tbilisi
Post: 9/12/18 | September 12th, 2018

Post: 9/12/18 | September 12th, 2018

“When did you first hear of Georgia?” Mako asked after a long drag from her cigarette. She was a Georgian tour guide helping my friend Dave, who was also in the country. We were drinking wine outside Fabrika, an old Soviet fabric factory now converted into a multi-use center with bars, restaurants, co-working spaces, shops, artist studios, and a hostel.

“Hmm…” I replied. “That’s a good question. On one level, I’ve known about Georgia for a long time, because, well, I know my geography. But as a place that was more than just a name on a map, I would have to say it’s only been in the last few years — when I started thinking of more unique and off-the-beaten-path places to visit — that I really thought ‘Hmm, Georgia? That could be interesting!’”

When I left London for a trip to Azerbaijan in June, I added nearby Georgia to the itinerary too. Friends spoke highly of the country, and I wanted to see its mountain towns, beaches, and historic cities, and to taste the food and wine I had heard so much about.

My original plan was to spend about a little over a week there, hitting some of the highlights and whetting my appetite for another trip (to me, a week in a country is just never enough time).

But, after a change in plans that required me to head home earlier than expected, I only had time to see the capital of Tbilisi.

From the moment I got off the bus from Azerbaijan, I was in love. Yes, that’s a cliché. To fall for a place right away. But sometimes a destination just hits you to your core right way. The energy — the essence — of where you are just flows through your body and you feel like you’re coming home to a place you didn’t even realize was home.

It’s as if a part of you had always been there, and you were simply returning to make yourself whole again.

A view overlooking Tbilisi

A view overlooking Tbilisi

Over the next few days, that feeling only increased as I actually began exploring the city.

Before arriving, I had pictured a grimy old city with crumbling, ugly Soviet-era buildings and graffiti. In my mind, it was still frozen in the immediate fall of the Soviet empire.

Instead, I found a beautifully preserved Old Town with cobblestone streets and stunning buildings with ornate balconies; lots of spacious parks, wide streets, eclectic artist spaces, and funky cafés; and modern and sometimes futuristic architecture. It was a lot more like Europe than I had anticipated.

A pedestrian bridge in Tbilisi

A pedestrian bridge in Tbilisi

I spent my first day wandering the old town. I gazed at the Metekhi Church with its giant equestrian statue of King Vakhtang Gorgasali overlooking the Mtkvari River. This is where the king built his palace when he made Tbilisi his capital in the fifth century. (Legend has it that he founded Tbilisi while hunting and discovered the sulfur baths, but a city existed here long before he came along! He just revived it.) The simple, domed-shaped brick building is popular with locals, as legend says the fifth-century martyr St. Shushanik was buried here.

From there I walked across the bridge, toward the famous sulfur baths, a collection of brick-domed buildings containing subterranean bathhouses. These baths helped make Tbilisi famous, as the waters are claimed to help soothe symptoms in chronically ill patients, like arthritic pain or poor blood circulation. There used to be 63 of these baths in Tbilisi, but there are only a handful left now. They are still wildly popular, though I don’t see the charm in smelling like rotten eggs. (But I’m a weirdo, so what do I know?)

Buildings in Tbilisi

Buildings in Tbilisi

These bathhouses straddle a small river that feeds them and then meanders through a canyon that you can follow to the amazing Dzveli Tbilisi sulfur waterfall. There, the sound of the city melts away, and you feel more like you’re in a national park than a national capital.

I wandered some more and located the entrance to Tbilisi’s gigantic National Botanical Garden, where I found a zip line, tons more waterfalls and rivers to swim in (which, given the high temps during my visit, were well utilized by locals), hiking paths, and flowers and shrubbery. Amidst this peace, I often had to remind myself that I was in a chaotic major city and not some little quiet mountain town.

Hiking in Tbilisi

Hiking in Tbilisi

From there it was up to the Narikala Fortress, which dominates the skyline. Dating back to the fourth century, it was once a Persian citadel. Most of the walls were built in the eighth century, but in 1827 an explosion of Russian ammunition stored there wrecked the whole thing. The cliffs the ruins are on offer the best views of the entire city. You can see for miles, which is probably why the site was chosen for the citadel. A cable car connects it with Rike Park on the other side of the Mtkvari River.

The next day, I explored the city’s history museums (which, to my surprise, had a good amount of English translations). I highly recommend the Georgian National Museum, which has a detailed exhibit on the country’s history; the Nikoloz Baratashvili Memorial House-Museum, which houses materials related to the life and work of the romantic poet, period furniture, folk musical instruments, paintings, and lots of history about 19th-century Georgia; and the David Baazov Museum, which talks about Jewish history in Georgia (Israel and Georgia have a close relationship).

However, after having hiked a lot in Azerbaijan, walking in the stifling summer heat of Tbilisi wasn’t that exciting to me. So, after a day and half of sightseeing, I found myself indoors drinking tea, writing, consuming a (un)healthy amount of wine, gorging on food at Fabrika, talking to other travelers, getting to the know the staff at a local coffee shop, and hanging out with Dave.

I can’t say I really know Tbilisi. Sure, I can get around the subway now. I have an idea of what things cost. I know a little about the city and country. I met some cool people. I have a vague sense of place

But I don’t know it the way I know New York or Paris or Bangkok or a thousand other place I’ve lived or spent years traveling to.

But I feel like I know it.

Tbilisi is a city bursting with activity. A city of art and history. Of enjoyment. Of an energy that seemed to say, “Come enjoy the good life over wine. Don’t fret over things — just be.”

Tbilisi’s energy is my energy.

We are a match made in heaven.

And, though it’s terrible to end a travel article with the cliché “I can’t wait to go back,” I honestly can’t wait to go back.

I felt at home in that city.

And everyone loves the feeling of returning home.

Book Your Trip to Tbilisi: Logistical Tips and Tricks

Book Your Flight
Find a cheap flight to Tbilisi by using Skyscanner or Momondo. They are my two favorite search engines. Start with Momondo.

Book Your Accommodation
I highly recommend the hostel and co-working space Fabrika. To book another hostel in Tbilisi, use Hostelworld. If you want to stay elsewhere, use Booking.com as they consistently return the cheapest rates. (Here’s the proof.)

Don’t Forget Travel Insurance
Travel insurance will protect you against illness, injury, theft, and cancellations. I never ever go on a trip without it. I’ve been using World Nomads for ten years. You should too.

Need Some Gear?
Check out our resource page for the best companies to use!

Want More Information on Georgia?
Be sure to visit our robust Georgia travel guide for even more planning tips!

Is Morocco Safe? 9 Ways to Stay Safe During Your Visit in 2019

wandering the fez medina in morocco

wandering the fez medina in morocco
Updated: 12/15/2018 | December 15th, 2018

12/15/2018 | December 15th, 2018

Wandering around the Fez medina, I could feel the stares. “Where are you going? Want to go to the tanneries? I’ll take you. No money. Don’t worry!” the medina’s faux guides said as they chased me down the street.

“No, I’m fine,” I’d reply, trying to dodge them at every turn. Turning down side streets, stopping to look at a map, or admiring a view caused them and any nearby vendor to pounce and badger me, inviting me into stores, restaurants, and attractions.

There were moments when I would turn down streets only to have my spidey sense tell me to turn back. A few guys tried to corner me before I managed to slip into a store. Heck, even a little kid tried to pick my pocket. While other cities were not as intense as Fez, my visit to Morocco required a thick skin and a watchful eye.

Before my trip to Morocco, I queried a number of friends about their experiences. I’d heard horror stories of touts, harassment, pickpockets, and scams. While that is common everywhere, Morocco travel seemed to take it to another level. “Keep an eye out,” everyone warned.

After two weeks visiting Morocco (which is amazing — see this post, where I fawn all over it!) with Intrepid Travel on their Best of Morocco tour, I could see why people say Morocco demands extra diligence when it comes to staying safe in Morocco. Touts, scammers, and harassers abound and, while it wasn’t bad when I was with my group, when I was alone, it was intense. As I settled into the famous and secluded Café Clock in Fez to relax, I messaged fellow writers online to ask if I was overreacting or if they felt the same way.

“No, it’s not just you,” was the universal reply.

How to Stay Safe in Morocco

In truth, Morocco is a safe place to visit. There’s only really small crime there (scams and pickpockets) and you’re unlikely to be assaulted or seriously hurt as a tourist in the country. Morocco is super safe for tourists now. As a solo female traveler, you need to watch out a little more carefully but, overall, you are still unlikely to encounter serious problems.

Morocco travel requires extra vigilance because it’s easy to have something happen to you. You’re unlikely to ever be in any real physical danger in Morocco, but the petty crime and harassment require you to stay on guard — more so than other countries. However, if you follow a few rules, you can leave Morocco unscathed and without incidence.

Here are my 9 tips on how to stay safe when you visit Morocco:

  1. Don’t walk alone at night — While walking in well-lit and busy areas can be fine, be careful walking at night. You never know what lurks around the corner in the medinas. Petty crime is rampant here, especially against tourists.
  2. Don’t walk alone if you’re a woman — A woman alone will attract a lot of unwarranted attention from men, an increased chance of being followed, and the likelihood of groping. Even when I was with the girls on my trip, they got a lot of attention. I could only imagine how much worse it was when they were alone. And, as a female, especially do not walk alone at night!
  3. Dress conservatively — Morocco is a conservative Muslim country, and it’s not appropriate to wear skimpy clothing. Keep your arms, shoulders, and legs covered (especially if you are a woman) to avoid any unwanted attention and conform to local norms.
  4. Avoid flashy jewelry — A good universal rule, this takes on more urgency in a country where theft is common and people will see the jewelry as a sign of wealth and therefore try harder to scam you in stores or rob you on the streets.
  5. Don’t carry valuables — Since muggings and pickpockets are common, take the minimum you need when you leave your hotel or hostel. Don’t take your passport with you – leave it in the hotel! A few people on my tour carried it around with them and when my guide found out, he looked like he was about to have a heart attack!
  6. Avoid back alleys — The tiny alleys of the medina are beautiful to explore but sometimes they make you easy prey for scammers and thieves. Don’t venture too far away from the crowds.
  7. Watch for scams — If someone asks you into their shop for tea, they are going to use that as a pretext to get you to buy something and, thanks to the ingrained psychological idea of reciprocity, you’ll probably give in. Don’t let anyone ask you to write a letter or read a postcard that their “cousin” sent to them in English/French/whatever your native language is. It’s a ruse to get you into their store and wear you down. Same with letting someone put henna on your hand. Once these vendors have you, they will be relentless about you trying on clothes, buying something, or giving them money. Say “no thank-you” and walk away.
  8. Say no to tour guides — The people saying “no money” definitely want your money. They will try to get you into their shops or take you places and ask for money for the service. Be firm and tell them no. It doesn’t matter their age or how helpful they are, if they start walking with you, they will ask for money!
  9. Always negotiate taxi prices up front — Always negotiate the price for taxis before you get in, as prices are going to be substantially inflated when you arrive at your destination.

While this is good advice for any country, Morocco is more intense than your average destination due to the sheer number of people who will give you unwanted attention. It takes a lot of energy to always be on your guard in a place where the simple act of asking for directions often leads people asking for money.

Is Morocco safe? Yes, for the most part. But visiting Morocco requires you to be a little tougher and keep an eagle out for problems. It requires you to be a little bit more skeptical.

I was insulated because I was on a tour, but when I was alone or with just a few people, people came out of the woodwork, catcalled my friends, grabbed at the girls, and blocked entrances to restaurants in order to accost us. Even after a decade of travel, I found myself wishing I had a companion to share the mental burden and wanting to scream, “Leave me alone so I can just enjoy your country!”

Many people have asked me if they should go visit Morocco alone.

My honest answer? If you’re a first-time traveler, it might be hard.

This was my first time in North Africa and it was an adjustment for me (and I’ve a very experienced traveler). I was glad to be on a tour and have a guide. If you don’t have a lot of travel experience or are a woman traveling alone, it might just be too much. I might suggest going on a tour first instead of exploring the country solo. Moreover, it is hard to get into the remote desert and mountains on the public transportation systems. I wouldn’t drive here either as everyone races around mountain curves.

That said thousands of people come here alone and they are fine. If you’re OK in uncomfortable situations and a frenetic environment, you’ll be able to visit Morocco just fine!

Morocco was a battery on my senses — the food, the colors, the spices, the smells, and the scenery were unforgettable. (Also the doors — they have such ornate and colorful doorways in Morocco. I have dozens of pictures of doors).

I would 100% recommend to anyone that they visit the country, but make sure you keep an extra eye out (especially in Fez) and have a thick skin for all the people asking you to buy things!

Morocco won’t be easy but it’s worth the visit – and it’s a lot safer than you think!

Editor’s Note: I went to Morocco with Intrepid Travel on their Best of Morocco tour. It was part of my ongoing partnership with Intrepid Travel. They covered the cost of the tour, flight, and meals.

Want to Learn How I Travel the World for Free?

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Book Your Trip to Morocco: Logistical Tips and Tricks

Book Your Flight
Find a cheap flight by using Skyscanner or Momondo. They are my two favorite search engines because they search websites and airlines around the globe so you always know no stone is left unturned.

Book Your Accommodation
You can book your hostel with Hostelworld. If you want to stay elsewhere, use Booking.com as they consistently return the cheapest rates for guesthouses and cheap hotels. I use them all the time.

Don’t Forget Travel Insurance
Travel insurance will protect you against illness, injury, theft, and cancellations. It’s comprehensive protection in case anything goes wrong. I never go on a trip without it as I’ve had to use it many times in the past. I’ve been using World Nomads for ten years. My favorite companies that offer the best service and value are:

  • World Nomads (for everyone below 70)
  • Insure My Trip (for those over 70)

Looking for the best companies to save money with?
Check out my resource page for the best companies to use when you travel! I list all the ones I use to save money when I travel – and I think will help you too!

Want More Information on Morocco?
Be sure to visit our robust destination guide on Morocco for even more tips on how to plan your visit!

Sri Lanka Travel Guide 2019: What to See, Do, & Suggested Itineraries

train station in sri lanka

train station in sri lanka
Updated: 1/5/2019 | January 5th, 2019

1/5/2019 | January 5th, 2019

My visit to Sri Lanka — a jewel–shaped country in the Indian Ocean — was an unexpected surprise. I didn’t have a lot of expectations for the trip. But it turned out to be an amazing experience. I loved every bit of Sri Lanka: the verdant landscape, the delicious food; the crumbling, overgrown ruins; the abundant wildlife; and (especially) the welcoming locals who took hospitality to the next level.

Traveling Sri Lanka is a relatively easy thing to do. It can be a little chaotic, with overcrowded buses moving along clogged roads where lanes are mere suggestions, and trains packed to the gills with people hanging off the edges (which actually is kind of fun). But English is widely spoken so once you get used the chaos, it isn’t too difficult to get around.

But there are a few things you should know before you visit Sri Lanka to avoid getting scammed, overspending, and, like me, missing some of the scenic trains!

Here’s my guide to visiting Sri Lanka:

Sri Lanka Travel Guide: 14 Things to Know for Your Visit

Travel Tip #1: Don’t drink the water – You shouldn’t really drink the water in Sri Lanka, so bring a reusable water bottle with a purifier. It’s really hot, so to keep hydrated, you’d probably spend 300 rupees ($2 USD) per day on plastic bottles of water at 60 rupees ($0.40 USD) each. But a water bottle with a purifier costs just $20 USD (though my preferred brand Lifestraw is slightly more). Over the course of a two-week trip, that’s an $8 USD savings (and you help the environment too)!

Travel Tip #2: Eat the local food– Outside of the major cities of Colombo and Kandy, you won’t find many non-Sri Lankan or non-Indian food options. What you do find is a poor excuse for Western food that is overpriced and often a chain. Stick to the local food! It’s super delicious. I never knew much about Sri Lankan food before hand but now I’m hooked! Just eat it all! Balaji Dosai in Kandy; Ahinsa in Sigiriya; Upali’s in Colombo; Hot Hut in Nuwara Eliya; and the restaurants across from the bus station in Anuradhapura were some of my favorite.

Travel Tip #3: More about food– Food, besides being crazy good, is also really cheap in Sri Lanka! Local food costs about $1-3 USD per meal for simple dishes of dosas (a kind of pancake), kottu (a dish made of roti (flatbread), vegetables, egg and/or meat, and spices), rice, chicken, and everything in between. At restaurants with table service, you’ll pay closer to $5 USD.

Travel Tip #4: Sri Lanka isn’t a party– Don’t expect too many chances to drink alcohol. Outside the coastal tourist towns and the capital of Colombo, there isn’t much nightlife or opportunities to drink. While you can always crack a beer at your guesthouse, Sri Lanka isn’t home to a big drinking/nightlife culture. Expect your nights to be tame.

Travel Tip #5: Hire the Tuk-tuks– You can hire drivers cheaply. Any tuk-tuk driver will let you hire them for the day. Expect to pay around $20 USD for the day. Moreover, tuk-tuk drivers are pretty honest, except in Colombo, where they will try to scam and overcharge you. Elsewhere in the country, you’ll get a fair deal. There’s no need to try to bargain hard.

Travel Tip #6: Take the airport bus – There is a train to the airport you can take from Colombo Fort. It’s the cheapest way to get there, at 30 rupees ($0.20 USD). A tuk-tuk ride is about 2,500 rupees ($17 USD), and buses to the airport cost 110 rupees ($0.75 USD) and leave about every 30 minutes from Colombo Central Bus Station or Mawatha Bus Station.

Travel Tip #7: Travel by train: Train travel, while often slower, are the cheapest way to get around. Some typical routes: Colombo to Jaffna is 150-445 rupees ($1-3 USD), Jaffna to Anuradhapura is 150-295 rupees ($1-2 USD), Kandy to Nuwara Eliya is 85-280 rupees ($0.60-1.90 USD), and Colombo to Galle is 150-295 rupees ($1-2 USD).

Travel Tip #8: Book your train in advance: If you are taking the scenic train from Kandy to Nuwara Eliya or Ella (or vice versa) and want a seat, book it in advance through a travel agency, as tickets can’t be booked in person at the station unless it’s done four days before departure. You can always (and only) get a cramped second-class ticket (where you’ll learn the new meaning of a tight squeeze) on the day of departure. Many people will tell you to get to the station at 7am to buy a train ticket, but they don’t start selling them until 8am, so don’t listen to those people. Also, the concept of “sold out” doesn’t apply to “cattle class.”

Travel Tip 9: Show up early at Sigiriya: If you are visiting Sigiriya, get there when it opens at 8am to avoid huge lines and crowds at the site. If you are there after 10am, the crowds are so overwhelming it’s not worth visiting. It takes an hour to walk up as it’s single-file all the way!

Travel Tip 10: Skip the ticket line at Anuradhapura: If you are visiting Anuradhapura, tickets are $25 USD but are never checked unless you are entering the museum. (I also noticed Western tourists were the only ones ever asked to show a ticket at the museum.) Enter the site without paying by using the tiny road just southeast of the museum.

Travel Tip #11: Bring flip-flops to temples: You’ll have to take your socks and shoes off before visiting temples, even if they are outdoors, so bring flip-flops to keep your socks clean!

Travel Tip #12: Don’t expect high-end hostels: Hostels are really basic (fan, mosquito net, electric shower) but at $4-6 USD per dorm bed, you can’t go wrong.

Travel Tip #13: Day trip to Galle: Galle is only worth a day trip. Don’t stay over in the town. There is not much to do there at all.

Travel Tip #14: Find cheap accommodation: There are a lot of cheap accommodation throughout the country. You’ll usually get breakfast with your room too. Private rooms with your own bathroom start at $10 USD per night. Add $5 if you want air conditioning.

Visiting Sri Lanka: How Much Does it Cost?

 Visiting Sigiriya Rock Fortress in Sri Lanka

 Visiting Sigiriya Rock Fortress in Sri Lanka
Sri Lanka is a cheap country to visit. Even when you splurge, it’s not that expensive. Overall, I would say you couldn’t need more than a budget of $30 – 40 USD per day. The country is very cheap, especially if you stick to delicious local or Indian cuisine (the food is so cheap there’s no reason to grocery shop and cook your own meals), avoid the overpriced Western style restaurants (local food tastes much better anyways), travel second class and on buses, and don’t go crazy with the accommodation. Ever though I was on a budget, I didn’t go as low as I could (dorms every night, only Sri Lankan food, minimal activities, etc) and still found it was hard to break the bank. The expensive days in which I took a tour or decided to try some fancy restaurant were balanced out on the other days I didn’t.

Sri Lanka is a cheap country to visit. Even when you splurge, it’s not that expensive. Overall, I would say you couldn’t need more than a budget of $30 – 40 USD per day. The country is very cheap, especially if you stick to delicious local or Indian cuisine (the food is so cheap there’s no reason to grocery shop and cook your own meals), avoid the overpriced Western style restaurants (local food tastes much better anyways), travel second class and on buses, and don’t go crazy with the accommodation. Ever though I was on a budget, I didn’t go as low as I could (dorms every night, only Sri Lankan food, minimal activities, etc) and still found it was hard to break the bank. The expensive days in which I took a tour or decided to try some fancy restaurant were balanced out on the other days I didn’t.

Here is a list of prices to help you get an idea of costs in Sri Lanka:

  • Airport taxi – 2,500 rupees
  • National Museum in Colombo – 600 rupees
  • Train from Jaffna to Anuradhapura – 340 rupees
  • Bottle of water – 60 rupees
  • Bus from Anuradhapura to Dambulla – 340 rupees
  • Tuk-tuk from Dambulla to Sigiriya – 1,000 rupees
  • Kottu chicken (and water) – 370 rupees
  • Lunch 2 – 500 rupees
  • Tuk-tuk – 200 rupees
  • Bus from Dambulla to Kandy – 98 rupees
  • Hostel in Kandy – 600 rupees
  • Temple of the Tooth in Kandy – 1000 rupees
  • Dosai dinner in Kandy – 200 rupees
  • Train to Nuwara Eliya, second class – 160 rupees
  • Beer – 500 rupees
  • Bus to Tissamaharama (Tissa) – 240 rupees
  • Bus to Galle – 307rupees
  • Western lunch in Galle (burger and fries) – 1,200 rupees

What to See and Do in Sri Lanka: Itineraries By Region

 Wandering the Beautiful Jungles in Sri Lanka

 Wandering the Beautiful Jungles in Sri Lanka
Where should you go in Sri Lanka? Everywhere – if you have the time! Most travelers focus on the southern half of the country, with its hiking and beach towns. After decades of war, the north has a legacy of destruction that has yet to go away.

Where should you go in Sri Lanka? Everywhere – if you have the time! Most travelers focus on the southern half of the country, with its hiking and beach towns. After decades of war, the north has a legacy of destruction that has yet to go away.

Though I originally had planned to explore only the south due to my limited time there, I was offered the opportunity to talk to a member of Parliament in Jaffna up north and learn about the Tamil war, so I rearranged my route thus:

Colombo – Jaffna – Anuradhapura – Sigiriya/Dambulla – Kandy – Nuwara Eliya –Tissamaharama (Tissa) – Galle – Colombo

I was glad I did. Seeing the north gave me an added perspective on a portion of the country without hordes of other tourists. In fact, in my time up north, I saw only four Westerners.

And though Sri Lanka may look like a small island, there is a lot to see and do there! More than I imagined. Anuradhapura and Sigiriya both have amazing ancient ruins. Kandy is filled with hiking treks, a big Buddhist temple, and a butterfly garden. Nuwara Eliya is known for its hiking, Tissa is the gateway to Yala National Park (which has elephants and leopards), and Galle is a beautiful old Dutch fort town.

beautiful view of a tower in galle, sri lanka

beautiful view of a tower in galle, sri lanka
Even though I covered a lot of ground in my two weeks, I still missed many places, including Ella (more hiking), Arugam Bay (beaches), and most of the southern coast (more beaches and nightlife). I raced through the country and crammed too much into such a short period of time. I wouldn’t recommend going at such a breakneck pace.

Even though I covered a lot of ground in my two weeks, I still missed many places, including Ella (more hiking), Arugam Bay (beaches), and most of the southern coast (more beaches and nightlife). I raced through the country and crammed too much into such a short period of time. I wouldn’t recommend going at such a breakneck pace.

Where should YOU go?

I would break your Sri Lanka travels into two parts — the north/center and the south — and focus on one of those regions. There’s simply too much to do in the country and travel (buses and trains) around the country is too slow to try to cover so much ground in a limited time.

Unless you have more time, then the world is your oyster!

Suggested Sri Lanka Itineraries

Southern Route (two weeks): Colombo – Hikkaduwa – Galle – Mirissa – Tangalle – Tissa – Ella – Nuwara Eliya – Kandy – Colombo

Northern Route (two weeks): Colombo – Nuwara Eliya – Ella – Kandy – Sigiriya – Anuradhapura – Trincomalee – Jaffna – Colombo

North and South (four weeks): Colombo – Jaffna – Trincomalee – Anuradhapura – Sigiriya – Kandy – Nuwara Eliya – Ella – Tissa – Tangalle – Mirissa – Galle – Hikkaduwa – Colombo

If you have a month, you could do this entire route plus add in the coastal towns of Arugam Bay and Negombo. With two weeks, focus on either the southern coast or the central/northern areas.

One thing to know is that once you’ve done the major things in a city, there’s very little reason to stay. For example, Tissa is the gateway to Yala National Park. Tour operators run most tours in the early morning (a higher chance of seeing animals) so if you took one of those tours, you could be on a bus moving on to your next destination by lunch time. There’s really not much else in the town. The same could with Jaffna. Tick a few boxes and then move on. Galle is more a day trip from a nearby beach town than a place to spend a few days. There was so little to do there I just went back to Colombo instead of staying the night. Sigiriya and Dambulla can be done in two nights (though I added an extra night because I liked the family I was staying with). Nuwara Eliya, Ella, Kandy, Arugam Bay, Trincomalee – those places have more activities and are worth spending a longer time in.

Where to Stay in Sri Lanka

For accommodation, I really liked the following places to stay in Sri Lanka. They were the best beds, had the friendliest staf, and were a great spot to meet other travelers.

Where to Eat in Sri Lanka

For restaurants, besides the list above (item number 2), I would also recommend the Ministry of Crab. It’s an expensive seafood restaurant in Colombo but it’s delicious! Sri Lankan crab is famous worldwide and they have gigantic ones. It’s not cheap but sometimes, you just have to treat yourself. While I didn’t go out much, if you find yourself in Kandy, the Slightly Chilled Bar is a popular meeting spot and has wonderful views of the city (and the sunset).

****Sri Lanka is an easy country to visit, and with a few tips, you can travel there with ease. This is a very budget-friendly country, even if you go nuts on the attractions and tours. I didn’t spend a lot of money, averaging just $35 USD per day. (Any expensive days will be balanced out with the cheap days where you just walk around, hike, or sit on the beach!)

Sri Lanka is an easy country to visit, and with a few tips, you can travel there with ease. This is a very budget-friendly country, even if you go nuts on the attractions and tours. I didn’t spend a lot of money, averaging just $35 USD per day. (Any expensive days will be balanced out with the cheap days where you just walk around, hike, or sit on the beach!)

Looking at the map of Sri Lanka, you might say, “Oh, it’s not that big. I bet I can cover a lot of ground in a short period if time.” You could, but you won’t “see” much. It will be too much of a blur. There is a lot to see and do in Sri Lanka and it takes awhile to travel around. Don’t rush your trip.

Sri Lanka may be small but it packs a powerful punch. Take your time to see this land of jungles, waterfalls, monkeys, delicious food, and lovely people!

Book Your Trip to Sri Lanka: Logistical Tips and Tricks

Book Your Flight
Find a cheap flight by using Skyscanner or Momondo. They are my two favorite search engines because they search websites and airlines around the globe so you always know no stone is left unturned.

Book Your Accommodation
You can book your hostel with Hostelworld. If you want to stay elsewhere, use Booking.com as they consistently return the cheapest rates for guesthouses and cheap hotels. I use them all the time.

Don’t Forget Travel Insurance
Travel insurance will protect you against illness, injury, theft, and cancellations. It’s comprehensive protection in case anything goes wrong. I never go on a trip without it as I’ve had to use it many times in the past. I’ve been using World Nomads for ten years. My favorite companies that offer the best service and value are:

  • World Nomads (for everyone below 70)
  • Insure My Trip (for those over 70)

Looking for the best companies to save money with?
Check out my resource page for the best companies to use when you travel! I list all the ones I use to save money when I travel – and I think will help you too!

Photo Credit: 3, 4

Your Guide to (Legally) Staying in Europe for More Than 90 Days

staying in europe for more than 90 daysstaying in europe for more than 90 days
Updated: 06/05/2019 | June 5th, 2019

When I planned my move to Sweden a few years ago, I tried to figure out how to get past the 90-day limit placed on tourist visas in the Schengen Area. This is a problem encountered by thousands of travelers every year and a question that regularly (especially this time of year) pops up in my inbox.

“How can I stay in Europe for more than 90 days?” I’m always asked.

It’s a great question with a very complicated answer. I always knew it was difficult, but until I started researching how to stay there longer, I never knew just how difficult. But in the process of this research, I came to learn there are a few ways to stay in Europe longer than 90 days; they just aren’t well known.

This post will teach you the options for staying in Europe over 90 days as well as give you tips on how to move to Europe. But first a few things:

It’s important to note that Europe isn’t just one place — there are varying visa rules throughout the continent. When people talk about the “90-day limit,” they’re talking about restrictions on the Schengen Area, which is the visa policy that governs 26 countries in Europe. It includes all of the European Union — except Ireland and the United Kingdom — as well as a few non-EU countries. (Note: While I call it the “Schengen Visa”, it’s not an actual visa you apply for. It’s simply what I refer to the 90 day limit as.)

What is the Schengen visa?

The Schengen visa is a 90-day tourist visa for Schengen Area countries, which are:

These Schengen countries have a border-free visa agreement that lets residents move throughout the Area without needing to show their passport every time they cross a border. Essentially, it’s as if they’re one country, and you can move as freely as you want. (Residents of the UK and Ireland are allowed limitless entry.)

Citizens of most countries are allowed to enter the Schengen Area without having to get a visa beforehand. Your passport simply gets stamped upon your arrival and departure from Europe. You’re allowed to enter and leave from any country you want — they don’t have to be the same. I fly in and out of different countries all the time. Your first entry in the 180-day period is when your 90-day counter starts. These days don’t need to be consecutive — the total is cumulative. Once day 181 hits, the count resets itself.

For example, if I come to the Area in January and stay for 60 days and then come back in June for 10 days, that counts as 70 days in 180 days. Only days you are in the zone during the period count. If you go on January 1st and stay 90 straight days, you have to leave and technically can’t come back until July 1st.

However, not all travelers are allowed such freedom. Citizens from many countries need to apply for a Schengen visa ahead of time. You’ll be required to fill out paperwork beforehand and fly in and out of the country for which your visa is issued. (Even then, you still might not be granted a visa. Spoiler alert: citizens from African and Asian countries get screwed.)

You can find the specific rules regarding your country at the European Commission website or from the country that is your first point of entry.

So, with that being said, how DO you stay in Europe (i.e. the Schengen Zone) longer? How do you get around that rule? Let me break it down for you.

Part 1: Staying or Moving to Europe the Easy Way

With so many visa rules, it’s easy to stay in Europe beyond 90 days as a tourist — you just need to mix up the countries you visit. The United Kingdom has its own rules that allow you to stay 180 days in a calendar year. Most non-Schengen countries such as Ukraine, Moldova, Croatia, Ireland, and some Balkan countries allow you to stay for up to 60 or 90 days. So all you need to do is spend 90 days in the Schengen Area, visit the UK, go to the Balkans, hang out in Ukraine, drink wine in Moldova, and have a pint in Ireland. If you align your schedule right, you can easily be out of the Schengen Area for 90 days and then head back into the Schengen Area.

I spent three months in Bulgaria, Romania, Ukraine, and England as I waited for my clock to reset and then headed back into Germany for Oktoberfest.

So if you want to travel the continent for a long time without having to go through the various visa processes described below, vary your travel by visiting non-Schengen countries. There’s plenty to see elsewhere while you wait to wait for your Schengen Visa clock to reset.

—-> Need more tips for Europe? Visit my destination guide and get in-depth information on what to see and do and how to save money.

Part 2: Staying in the Schengen Area Past 90 Days

staying in europe for more than 90 daysstaying in europe for more than 90 days
But what if you do want to stay longer in the Schengen Area? Then what? What if the six months you want to be in Europe is all in the Schengen Area? What if you want to live and work in Europe?

After all, it covers 26 countries, and visiting so many destinations in 90 days can be a little rushed (you would have an average of 3.4 days per country).

If you want to stay longer to travel, live, learn a language, or fall in love, then the “move around” option suggested above isn’t going to work for you. You need something else. Luckily, there are a few ways to do this — and I can’t stress enough the importance of the word “few.”

Staying more than 90 days in the Schengen Area isn’t easy.

First, let’s understand the rule…

The Schengen law states that you can’t stay in the Area more than 90 days. If you do, you’re subject to a fine and deportation. How that rule is enforced, though, varies greatly from one country to another. If you overstay by a few days or even a week, you’ll probably be OK. If you overstay longer, you might have problems.

Some countries do not mess around with visitors overstaying. For example, Germany, the Netherlands, Poland, Switzerland, and Scandinavian countries are all very strict about entry and exit. If you overstay your tourist visit by longer than a week, there’s a good chance they’ll pull you aside. Two Australians I know were detained leaving Switzerland due to overstaying their visa by two weeks. They were allowed to go with just a warning, but they missed their flights and had to book new flights.

I know of someone who overstayed by six months, tried to leave from Amsterdam, and now has an “illegal immigrant” stamp on her passport. In order to enter Europe again, she must apply for a visa at an embassy and be preapproved: “I made the mistake of attempting to leave from the Netherlands after overstaying a Schengen visa and was caught. I overstayed by about a month, and they hand-drew some sort of insignia in my passport to note my overstay. They told me I’d have to contact the IND and find out if I would be able to enter the Schengen states again.”

(And another blogger I met just told me this happened to them too…so don’t overstay!)

Yet if you leave from Greece, France, Italy, or Spain — the southern European countries — you won’t have any problems, provided you (a) haven’t stayed over too long and (b) didn’t catch the immigration officer on a bad day. When I left Greece, no one even looked at my passport. One of my friends met a guy in France, fell in love, and decided not to leave. A year later, when she finally did, the French officials didn’t even look twice. Another friend flew into France and didn’t even get an entry stamp. Spain is notorious for not caring, and Americans who decide to overstay for months mention that as the easiest country to exit from.

That being said, I don’t think it’s wise to overstay. No matter where you are, you can get away with a few days. Maybe a week, especially if you’re heading home. But a few weeks? A few months? The risk is too great. I love going to Europe enough where I wouldn’t want to be banned.

Can you extend your Schengen visa/stamp?
The Lonely Planet Thorn Tree forums, while a mess of random posts, are good for one thing: stuff like this. I came across one great quote: “This topic has been discussed ad nauseam here on the boards for years. If someone found a way to extend a Schengen, we would have heard of it by now.”

He’s right. Simply put, you cannot extend your tourist visa or entry stamp. There’s a 90-day limit, and that’s that.

staying in europe for more than 90 daysstaying in europe for more than 90 days

OK, so what’s a tourist to do?

1. Get a working holiday visa so you can stay or move there legally

Working holiday visas are easy to get and the best way to extend your stay — even if you don’t want to work. Citizens of Australia, Canada, and New Zealand (and often South Korea and Japan) are eligible for one- to two-year working holiday visas from most of the Schengen countries. Applicants must apply for this visa from a specific country and be younger than 30 (though, in some cases, like for Canadians working in Switzerland, you can be as old as 35).

Additionally, know you can get multiple working holiday visas. An Australian reader of mine got a two-year Dutch working holiday visa and then got one from Norway to stay two more years. While she and her boyfriend (who also got one) did odd jobs in Holland for a bit, they mostly used it as a way to travel around the continent. Note: This type of visa won’t allow you to work in any other country than the one that issued it.

To find out more, visit the embassy of the country you want the visa from in order to apply. Individual countries give these out.

For Americans, there is no working holiday visa in the Schengen Zone. However, American citizens who are in school or within a year of graduation can get a working holiday visa for Ireland. That will allow you to live and work in Ireland – and thus travel around Europe!

2. Get a long-term-stay visa so you can stay or move to Europe

Unfortunately, the majority of the countries do not allow long-term-stay visas for visitors. In my pursuit of a long-term visa for Sweden, I found that there’s no universal long-term tourist visa for the Schengen Area. Schengen allows for a C- or D-class visa (the letter varies on the country), which is a semi-permanent residence visa for up to one year. But the specific visa and requirements vary from country to country. Some countries are harder, some are easier, and others are nearly impossible despite being in the same visa treaty zone. (I don’t understand the variance either. Same zone, different rules — it makes no sense. You’d think if they were to all have the same rules they would abide by the same visa.)

But there are a few countries that do offer long-term visas and they aren’t too hard to get:

France
Amazing view of the Eiffel Tower in Paris, France in the summerAmazing view of the Eiffel Tower in Paris, France in the summer
France offers a long-term visitor visa for a period of up to one year. The application process takes up to one month. According to the French Embassy, “The ‘visitor’ visa (or visa ‘D’) allows you to enter France and stay for more than three months. Long-stay visa holders will be allowed to reside in France for up to 12 months according to the validity of their visa and purpose of stay.”

To get this visa, you must set up an appointment at the French consulate near you. You can’t walk in — you must make an appointment.

At this appointment, bring the following documents:

  • One application form filled out completely and signed
  • One ID picture glued onto the application form
  • Your original passport, which must have been issued less than 10 years ago, be valid for three months after your return, and have at least two blank pages left
  • A letter certified by a notary public that promises you won’t engage in work
  • A letter of employment stating current occupation and earnings
  • Proof of income (you’ll need bank statements or copies of your investment portfolio)
  • Proof of medical insurance that includes evacuation insurance
  • Proof of accommodation in France. (The French consulate never returned my emails, so I was unsure how you could have this before you even get to France. One could use a friend’s address or, lacking that, “rent” a place (one where you can get a refund) for the purposes of the interview. It’s a little fuzzy.)

Note: You can’t apply for this visa more than three months before your arrival date.

You can visit the French Embassy website for links to local embassies and consulates for more information.

Sweden
A river view of the city of Stockholm, SwedenA river view of the city of Stockholm, Sweden
Sweden also offers a long-term stay tourist visa for a maximum period of one year. The process is easy but long — up to eight months! It’s not something to do at the last minute (though if you already in the country, the process only takes a couple of weeks). You’ll need two copies of the following documents when applying for the visa:

  • Residence permit for visitor’s application form
  • Notarized copies of the pages of your passport that show your identity and the validity of your passport, as well as copies of all the other visas/stamps you have
  • A bank statement showing your means of supporting yourself for the duration of your stay
  • A return airplane ticket
  • A letter from your insurance company stating you’re covered overseas

Applications can be delivered in person during visiting hours (no appointment needed) or mailed to a Swedish consulate.

After your documents are received, you’ll be required to have an interview with one of the immigration officers. Most people who apply for this visa have family in Sweden. If you don’t, you’ll need to have clear reasons as to why you need to stay longer and show ample proof that you can support yourself (i.e., “I want to meet Swedish guys/girls” won’t cut it!). If you’re applying in Sweden, you’ll need to put a local’s address on your application form, and that person will have to accompany you to your interview!

Italy
The colorful buildings and skyline of Florence, ItalyThe colorful buildings and skyline of Florence, Italy
Like the other countries, Italy will let you in if you can afford it and promise not to work. You’ll need the following documents to apply:

  • A long-term visa application filled in and signed at the consulate. You must appear in person.
  • One passport-style photo
  • Your passport, which has to be valid three months over the planned stay in Italy. The passport will be kept during the application process.
  • Documented and detailed guarantee of steady income, as well as proof of financial means, such as letters from the bank indicating the status of your account, including the amount of money in the account.
  • Proof of lodging in Italy
  • A letter specifying the reason for your stay in Italy, length of stay, and where you plan to reside
  • A notarized background check

This visa is issued solely to those who are planning to move to Italy and not work.

Greece, Spain, and Portugal also offer long-term-stay visas, but they’re geared to people who are retired or plan to work in the country and have a lot of assets. They aren’t meant for people passing through, but you can always try and apply anyway. They have a lot more requirements and are really meant for people who will live there.

Additional notes:

  • The rules are not universal. In some cases (depending on your country of citizenship), additional documents may be required. You’ll want to check with your local embassy for specifics, but you aren’t restricted from applying for these visas from your home country.
  • All of these visas will require you to show proof that you either have income, have a lot of savings or both. This is about proving you don’t need to work. They’re adamant about not letting these visas be someone’s back-door way of getting into the EU and finding a job. While most didn’t give an exact number, I would say that if you don’t have at least $25,000 USD in your bank account when you apply, you shouldn’t apply. It’s hard to say for sure how much you’re required to have, as the embassy websites aren’t specific. It’s most likely at the discretion of the immigration officer, but the more money you can show, the better. For citizens coming from developing countries, this number might be higher, and you may even need someone to vouch for you.

Because of Europe’s open-border policies, while you need to enter and exit from the country that issued you the visa, but you can be anywhere in Europe during the length of your visa. Once a country has issued you one of these short-term-stay residence visas, you’re a “resident,” allowing you access to anywhere in Europe.

EVEN MORE ADDITIONAL NOTES FOR AMERICANS:

For U.S. citizens, France has a bilateral agreement that allows the US citizens to stay an additional 90 days beyond the Schengen limit – without a visa!! Seriously. You can spend another 90 days in France. You can enter from any Schengen country, stay 90 days in France, and then fly home. But you have to go home. You can’t go elsewhere. You have to leave Europe so you can’t use your time in France as a sneaky way to reset your Schengen clock.

Now, the France / US rule is tricky. Multiple French consulates told me yes, they thought this law existed but couldn’t tell me where to find it. They just referred me to France’s general rules on immigration. A few visa services told me I was crazy. One consulate told me it was possible but only with a long-term visa.

BUT, after many calls, the embassy told me that yes, this law does and that yes, this is still valid. Then they referenced me to the French national archives.

And we found it. We found the actual diplomatic papers that spell this out. It took us close to a year to find it but we did.

Here’s a link to the law.

And this is the note from the French government about it:

Hi,

There is a bilateral agreement between French and the US by exchange letters (March 16-31 mars 1949), which allows American citizens to stay in France 90 days over 180 days, irrespective of the stays already made in other Schengen countries.

However, this agreement has been made before the Schengen agreement. Today, as there is no more border control between the Schengen countries, it is very difficult to determine how long a person has stayed in France and we heard that some people had troubles with the immigration police while leaving France.

Therefore, we recommend American citizens to respect the Schengen regulation which allows a maximum of 90 days on 180 days in the whole Schengen area.

Consulat général de France, Service des visas
4101 Reservoir Road, Washington DC, 20007

A follow to them gave me this response:

“Whilst the bilateral agreement you refer to has not officially been revoked, the French Border Police has sole authority on deciding whether to apply it or not, at the time of entering or exiting the Schengen area.”

And this was confirmed by the embassy in Lond too.

So this is really a thing – and while they don’t like you using it – it’s still the law. Just bring proof you stayed in France for 90 days!

Additionally, Denmark and Poland also have bilateral agreements with the United States that let citizens stay an additional 90 days in each country separate from the regular Schengen Zone visa. The Denmark rule applies the same way as the French one. You must travel directly from another Schengen country to Denmark. After your stay in Denmark, you cannot transit through other Schengen countries to get back to the US, you will have to fly directly or transit through non-Schengen zones. The Denmark additional 90-day stay is applicable for citizens of Australia, Canada, Chile, Israel, Japan, Malaysia, New Zealand, Singapore, South Korea and the US.

If you want to visit Poland, you must enter and leave Poland via a non-Schengen country where you will be stamped again (i.e., direct flight from NYC). So you could do 90 days in the Schengen, fly to the UK, and then fly to Poland.

Now, in theory, one could say thanks to borderless travel you could get your “extra 90 days in Denmark” and then just travel around, fly out of Denmark, and no one would be the wiser. One could say that. But I’ve noticed a lot more intra-Europe passport checks in the last year in the wake of the refugee crisis and rise of right-wing governments across the continent. I got yelled at in France for not having my passport with me while on a train to see a chateau. I wouldn’t recommend being super careless about this but, in theory, I guess it could be done.

Note: Poland’s rules are simply laid out in an agreement letter the US and Poland signed in 1991. (Here’s a copy of the letter from the Polish government.)

3. Get a “student” visa

All Schengen Area countries offer student visas that are easy to obtain so long as you’re enrolled in a recognized university program. This would require you to pay for the course, but it will virtually guarantee you a visa.

The best country to do this in is Spain (Portugal also offers a student visa that is easier to get than other countries), where a whole industry has sprung up to help “students” study Spanish. There are tons of schools that will allow you to enroll and write letters stating you’re a student there. (You’ll also need to apply in your home country!) This blog post details the process in great depth.

One thing to note is that this process is expensive since you have to pay for the class, visa fees, and required background checks, but if you really want to stay a full year, it might be worth the cost.

4. Get a freelancer visa to work or move to Europe

There are a few countries that offer freelancer visas for the modern day digital nomad (or wannabe digital nomad). This process is a little more complicated and not for the casual tourist. These visas are meant for people who actually want to live in Europe. For the casual tourist, you’d probably get denied. While your freelancer visa is being processed, it would extend your Schengen as countries give you extra time while they process the paperwork. So, in theory, you could apply knowing you’ll get denied to buy yourself some more time but that would be a lot of effort for nothing so probably don’t want to do that.

Germany offers the best freelancer visa and is the country most used by people who want to reside in Europe. If you’re a freelancer, artist, or have some form of income, this is the visa to get (and it’s quite easy to get). It’s perfect and will give you one to two years in the EU. This isn’t a business visa where you move your company to Germany, but a visa for contract workers, artists, web folks, and other freelance-type jobs.

You need to apply for this visa when in Germany. The process usually takes about a week. You simply need the following documents at your visa appointment:

  • A completed application form
  • Two passport photos
  • Bank statements — like the other visas, they want to know you have money just in case you don’t find work. As before, the more money, the better.
  • A copy of your résumé.
  • Proof of residency — You’ll either need to be on a rental contract or be on someone’s rental agreement. You need to bring an official copy of the rental agreement to the immigration office. Adam of Travels of Adam, says, “All I’ve ever had are short sublets. You still have to register at a local city office, but all I’ve done is show up with a printed-out lease from the Internet and submitted that. Once you do that, you get the official form from the local office and that’s all the visa people want to see.”
  • Health insurance — you need to have German insurance that’s valid for at least one year. It’s easy to get once you’re in Germany, and you don’t need to be a German citizen to get it.

Bring a German speaker with you just in case there’s a need for translation. The process is pretty straightforward. You might get lucky and get the visa that day. Or they might review it over the course of a couple of weeks. But if they do that and your 90-day Schengen visa is close to expiring, they’ll give you a temporary three-month visa extension while they process your request. In theory, one could apply for the visa knowing they won’t meet all the requirements simply to get the three-month temporary visa.

It’s very rare someone is denied this visa if they can show they have a job, income, or money in the bank. How they determine an “artist” is actually pretty loose too. I have tons of friends who have gotten this visa.

Additionally, the Czech Republic also has freelancer visa. It’s just as complex to get and you’ll need at least $6,000 USD in your bank account as proof you aren’t going to leech off their services. The lovely folks at Wandertooth, who did this process last year, walk you through the steps.

In recent years, Spain has also created freelancer visa called the “autonomo” that also follows a similar process. You can read more on this website, Spainguru.

These three countries are your best bet for this type of visa. While other countries offer them, they require lots of proof of income, taxes, and that you actually plan to live and operate your business in the country.

5. Get married and live in Europe forever!!!

Fall in love with a European (or at least a friend) and apply for a marriage visa! You’ll get to stay there while the application process goes through and then you can move to Europe and stay there forever with the love of your life! That’s win-win!

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The best, easiest, and most effective way to stay in Europe and live there long-term is to increase the number of countries you visit so you’re in the Schengen Area for only 90 days. As I said, there are a lot of countries not in the Area, so this is easy to do.

If you’re like me and want to stay in the Shengen Area longer than 90 days (or just want to move to Europe because it’s awesome), be prepared to work the system.

If you do want to stay in the Schengen Area beyond the 90-day limit, you need to apply for one of the visas listed above. When you go to the interview, make it crystal clear that you have enough money to support yourself, you’re not looking for a job, and give good reasons why you need to stay longer. “I want to spend more time drinking in Greece” will get you nowhere.

In the end, it’s not impossible to stay long-term in the Schengen Area. By working the system a bit and using the few loopholes that do exist, one can legally stay past 90 days and enjoy all Europe has to offer without worrying about being barred for life.

Further Europe Travel Planning Articles:
—> How to Live and Work in Spain
—> What to See and Do in Europe
—> Cheap Ways to Travel Across Europe
—> How a Eurail Pass Can Save You Money
 

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Nomadic Matt’s Backpacking Europe
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Book Your Trip to Europe: Logistical Tips and Tricks

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Book Your Flight
Find a cheap flight by using Skyscanner or Momondo. They are my two favorite search engines because they search websites and airlines around the globe so you always know no stone is left unturned.

Book Your Accommodation
You can book your hostel with Hostelworld. If you want to stay elsewhere, use Booking.com as they consistently return the cheapest rates. (Here’s the proof.)

Don’t Forget Travel Insurance
Travel insurance will protect you against illness, injury, theft, and cancellations. It’s comprehensive protection in case anything goes wrong. I never go on a trip without it as I’ve had to use it many times in the past. I’ve been using World Nomads for ten years. My favorite companies that offer the best service and value are:

  • World Nomads (for everyone below 70)
  • Insure My Trip (for those over 70)

Looking for the best companies to save money with?
Check out my resource page for the best companies to use when you travel! I list all the ones I use to save money when I travel – and I think will help you too!