My Big Fat Greek Festival: The St. John's Festival on Ios

Posted: 07/05/2011 | July 5th, 2011

“Eat, it’s like deer,” Francesco said to me.

I was surrounded by little Greek ladies in black shawls with wooden canes, people doing traditional dances, kids running around, lots of wine, and cooked wild goat being shoved in my face.

Francesco, the owner of my hostel, had invited me to this festival of all things Greek. Francesco’s hostel is an institution on Ios. Everyone knows it. He and his wife remembered me from last year, and over the weeks, I’d become more and more integrated into the hostel family. It was like I worked there but didn’t have to do anything.

One night as I was turning up at the bar, Francesco asked me if I had any plans.

“You have any meetings now? What are you doing?” (It was 10 at night.)

“None, I’m just going to talk to people on the patio.”

“OK, I’m going to take you to the festival of St. John at the monastery in the mountains.”

“Uhh, sure.”

If there’s one thing people learn quickly on Ios, it’s that you never say no to Francesco. He has an imposing personality and is quite a big figure in the community. It may sound like he is asking, but he isn’t. Francesco has the great ability to phrase a command as a question.

Not that I would ever say no anyway. How could I skip an opportunity to have a truly Greek evening just to hang out with more tourists? I can do that any day. But the chance to be shown something like this? Wouldn’t dream of skipping it. This is the kind of stuff I travel for.

We headed up the mountain, me keeping my eyes shut as we veered along the tiny, winding mountain track in the dark. Francesco assured me we were fine, but I winced at every bump in the road. I don’t like heights, and I’m always afraid I’m going to tumble off the edge.

“You a city boy, huh? Don’t worry. I’ve been on these roads all my life!” he assured me.

Arriving at the festival at last, Francesco ushered me past the dancers and into the back garden of the tiny monastery. In front of me were Greek women cleaning large food bowls, as well as huge cooking pots heating soup and goat meat. Francesco grabbed me a bowl, poured some soup into it, and threw in some chunks of goat. I was merely a passive observer in this whole scene, following orders and doing what I was told.

I sat down at a table full of Greek men who looked at me inquisitively. Francesco said a few things in Greek, and the men smiled, making an eating gesture. They stared as I ate as I ate every bit of food, looking at me like I was an alien. Here I was, a stranger in their world, and these old, cigarette-smoking Greek men were enjoying it as much as I was.

I’d never had wild goat before. In fact, I don’t think I’d ever had any kind of goat before. It was delicious. Tender, falling off the bone, it tasted a lot like lamb. I don’t know what the soup was made of, but that too was good. It had a thick, rice-porridge consistency. The bread was thick and obviously homemade, soaking up the hot soup well.

After the soup came wine and bread, and then different cheeses — “from Ios.” The soft goat cheese I was given by an old Greek man was some of the milkiest and smoothest goat cheese I’ve ever had. I cleaned the whole plate as a small Greek grandmother with a wooden cane and black shawl stopped and watched.

I’d come to watch their festival, but in some ways, their festival was watching me. They didn’t speak much English and I speak no Greek, but I think they got the idea that I liked it.

After the meal and another glass of wine, I left the old patriarchs to go watch the dancing. Sadly, it was mostly over by the time I got there, but I did manage to watch a few traditional dances, as well as a few drunk Greeks making up some moves on the dance floor. I simply sat there watching it and enjoying the music. I noticed a few Greeks looking at me, unable to decide if I was a local (when tan, I look very Greek) or a foreigner.

As the band played on and the night got later, the crowd began to thin out. In the old days, they would have taken donkeys up to the monastery to stay the night. Now people stay until around midnight before driving back into town.

Francesco came and got me a little while later. It was time to go. “It’s good. You like it?”

“Yeah, it was the most cultural Greek thing I’ve done in my three trips to Greece.”

“Good. Write about it. It will make a better story than about you getting drunk with other backpackers. This is real Greece. Not that other bullshit.”

And you know what? He was right.

So I did.

Book Your Trip to Greece: Logistical Tips and Tricks

Book Your Flight
Find a cheap flight to Greece by using Skyscanner or Momondo. They are my two favorite search engines. Start with Momondo.

Book Your Accommodation
You can book your hostel in Greece with Hostelworld. If you want to stay elsewhere, use Booking.com as they consistently return the cheapest rates. (Here’s the proof.)

Don’t Forget Travel Insurance
Travel insurance will protect you against illness, injury, theft, and cancellations. I never ever go on a trip without it. I’ve been using World Nomads for ten years. You should too.

Need Some Gear?
Check out our resource page for the best companies to use!

Want More Information on Greece?
Be sure to visit our robust destination tips on Greece for even more planning tips!

That Time I Went to Portugal and Fell Madly in Love With It

Posted: 09/24/2012 | September 24th, 2012

They say you just know when you’re in love. That this feeling of certainty comes over you as if you two were always destined for each other. While I’ve never been in love, it’s a feeling I’ve experienced before. I remember the moment I walked out of the metro onto Paris’s Champs-Élysées. I knew right there I loved Paris. I could feel it in my bones. I loved Paris, and every day I’ve spent there since has only made that feeling grow stronger. Paris and I were destined for each other.

And that’s exactly how I feel about Portugal.

Walking along the streets of Lisbon as I made my way to my friend’s house, I got that feeling all over again. I knew instantly I was in love with Lisbon. But more than that, I knew I was in love with Portugal.

I don’t know how I knew, but I did — and as I spent two weeks in Portugal exploring Lisbon, Porto, and the Port wine region of the Douro Valley, I fell madly in love.

Let’s start with the ways I loved Lisbon.

As I made my way up to my friend’s apartment on that initial walk, I couldn’t help but notice the trash, graffiti, and abandoned buildings everywhere. Half the buildings are broken down with boarded-up windows and look as though they’d be filled with squatters or drug addicts. Yet unlike the Italian city of Naples that has that same outward appearance, Lisbon didn’t feel gross or unsafe. It didn’t make me feel like I needed a shower. No, it simply felt lived in. I think Naples is a disgusting city, but Lisbon? There the run-down feeling is charming and lovable. Lisbon had an aged, rather than dirty and grimy, feel to it.

I spent four days traversing the city, and every tiny, cobblestoned street that opened onto a café-lined and church-filled square just made me love it more. Lisbon had history. It had depth. It had a personality.

Since Lisbon is a very hilly city, you can climb these hills with sweeping panoramic views of the city and its classic red-roof homes. The old Alfama area is a maze of tiny, meandering streets, and if you visit the space between the Museum of Fado and Museum of Portuguese Art, you escape the tourists and come across dimly lit local restaurants and homes where wives sit outside and shave their husbands’ beards, men paint, and grandmothers sit around and chat about the day.

I left Lisbon in awe and headed north to Porto, the famous city on the Douro River known for its port wine. While I didn’t love Porto the way I loved Lisbon, it was still a fabulous city with very cheap wine and a great riverfront. I think the area around the river is stunning and has some worthwhile panoramic views (try to get across the river and head to The Yeatman Hotel, where you can have a drink in the bar, sit out on the terrace, and enjoy the view without being a guest).

What I really enjoyed was the surrounding Douro Valley, with its thousand-meter peaks and wineries that I loved. I only got to spend two days in the region, but what a beautiful region it is. The wineries are high up on the hills and a bit of a drive along winding roads, but it’s like no wine country I’ve ever seen, and sitting up on the patio looking out over this incredible valley was jaw dropping.

Not only was the country beautiful but all the locals I met were super friendly, warm, and welcoming as well. They took the time to help me, explain Portuguese life, and show me their culture. I particularly remember a woman who ran a restaurant in Lisbon (which has since closed, unfortunately). It was a tiny place: only three tables. I went there for dinner, and she prepared a four-course meal paired with wine. The food was good and the wine great, but her charm and amazing conversation are what I’ll remember. And then there’s the amazing staff at Gallery Hostel that cooks elaborate 10-course meals and sits down to eat with the guests.

Portugal charmed me, dazzled me, and wooed me. It’s been a while since a country took me aback so much. (Japan did a few months ago, but I was already in love with it before I went.) I love most countries I visit, but few leave lasting impressions this strong (France, Cambodia, and Sweden come to mind), and in my two weeks in Portugal, I loved what I saw. But I still have more to explore: the Azores, the Algarve, Lagos, Faro, and everything in between.

Portugal is talked highly of among travelers, and after spending time there, I understand why. If you haven’t been yet, I suggest you go. You might even run into me while you’re there, because with so much left to see and my undying love, I’ll be back soon.

 

10 Ways to Save Money in Argentina

Argentina is a notoriously expensive country. Years of economic mismanagement and economic depression has led to rampant inflation, a black market for currency, and high prices for just about everything.  I expected the worst. In a country that used to be a bargain, I had low expectations for “doing Argentina on a budget.” However, I was pleasantly surprised and found that, while expensive, Argentina still had plenty of opportunities to save money.

Yes, the country is not as cheap as nearby Chile, Peru, or Bolivia, but Argentina doesn’t need to break the bank either. I found plenty of opportunities to balance my costs.  Beyond the universal money-saving advice — cooking your own food, couchsurfing, free tours, etc. — that I talk about on the blog, here are a few destination-specific travel ninja tips that will help you save money on your next visit:

Hitchhike – While not common in the north of the country, if you’re in Patagonia, you’ll see many locals and tourists alike hitchhiking, as long-distance buses in that part of the country can be very expensive and infrequent. It’s simply more convenient to hitchhike. This common way to get around is highly recommended. In fact, our solo female travel guru Kristin is currently over there and has hitchhiked all the way from Bariloche down to Torres del Paine so far!

Find the cheap eats – Looking to eat cheap? Empanada, choripán (sausage on bread) stands, and local hole-in-the-wall burger and pizza shops are your best options. It’s not the healthiest food, but it’s economical and tasty! Empanadas go for around 8-15 Pesos ( less than $1 USD), choripán for 25 ($2 USD), and pizza and burgers lunch specials for around 40 ($3 USD).

Eat out at fancy meals – Argentina was a weird paradox. What is cheap elsewhere is expensive here, and vice versa. At 100-130 pesos ($6-8 USD) for a sandwich and drink at a cafe, lunch is not cheap. That’s not going to break the bank, but you can dine on expensive steaks, wine, and sides for 500 pesos ($30 USD)! A full, delicious, filling meal vs. a sandwich? Easy. You get more value on the higher end! Splurge on steaks and fancy dinners in this budget tip turned upside-down.

For everything else, go for the cheap eats or make your own sandwiches (and given the lack of veggies in restaurants around the country, it’s a lot healthier to make your food!).

Buy your wine – 40 pesos ($3 USD) bottles of wine in the supermarket is a phenomenal deal. Grab a bottle, drink it up. It’s really good too! (Another tip: stick to wine. Liquor and beer are more expensive in Argentina!)

Rent a bike – You can rent bicycles from hostels and rental shops for 150 pesos ($10 USD) a day in most major cities. It’s an inexpensive way to get around and also out of the cities. This is especially useful when you’re in Mendoza’s wine country and you’re trying to get from winery to winery. Most hostels rent bikes or can direct you to the cheapest bike rental shop.

Camp – As you start to travel south to Patagonia, accommodation costs get higher and higher. Hostels are often 250 pesos ($17 USD) or more a night here (as opposed to as cheap as 90 ($6 USD) a night in Buenos Aires). Look for camping opportunities as often as possible. When you aren’t in the national parks (where you can obviously camp), many hostels will let you pitch your tent for a small fee.

Try out Airbnb – If hostels or camping aren’t your jam, I found a ton of Airbnb opportunities throughout the country starting at 500 pesos ($40 USD) a night for your own apartment.

Explore the outdoors – Hiking is free, and throughout the country you’ll find plenty of opportunities to enjoy this and other outdoor activities since Argentina is blessed with many city parks and nature reserves where you can spend the day wandering around and relaxing. (And, of course, there are a plethora of national parks where you can do multi-day treks!).

Don’t fly domestically – Thanks to a tax on foreigners, airfare in Argentina for non-residents is quite expensive. A two-hour flight can cost as much as $200 USD! Unless you are in a rush, don’t fly. Take the bus.

Dance for free – If you find yourself in Buenos Aries on a Sunday, you can find free tango events in San Telmo at 8pm on Sundays.  (On Monday, there’s the famous La Bomba de Tiempo, a music and dance event. It’s 90 pesos ($6 USD) but completely worth every penny! It was an unreal dance and music show!)

Argentina was tremendous and I was sad I didn’t get to see more of the country but with direct and fairly cheap flights from the United States, I suspect I’ll be back. I gorged on steaks, became a slight wino, and unstressed myself in the mountains! This isn’t the cheapest country in South America, but through smart spending, there’s no need to blow your budget in the land of steak, wine, and tango.

Note: All Pesos to USD conversions were rounded to the nearest whole number.

Note #2: As people pointed out in the comments, there’s a lot of inflation in Argentina so be sure to double check current prices before you!